BLACKNOR BEACH


The first climbable sections of cliff-line that stretch virtually unbroken along the full length of the west coast of Portland are the Blacknor Cliffs. These are also some of the most impressive and intensively developed cliffs on the Isle, with routes of all grades and, for the most part, on vertical rock. The style of climbing is typically fingery and technical, sometimes on flowstone, and at others on crimpy faces of fossil fragments. All of the routes are easily accessed along the cliff-base paths, and the area should be high on every visitor's hit list.

Routes

2 trad routes (S...VS)
27 sport routes (2...6c+)
1 dws route (E1)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
The Lunar Park
The Lunar Park consists of two boulders on the beach below Blacknor Central - The Solar and Lunar...
9
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Downhill

20 mins

Tidal
96
Diamond Slabs
Two clean and well-bolted slabs that are popular with those after some easier lines in a lovely...
7
Sport
Sun from mid-morning
Downhill

15 mins

97
Triple Slabs
The third of the sea-level sectors is located 100m north of the Fallen Slab area (see opposite). It...
9
Sport
Afternoon sun
Downhill

15 mins

Tidal
98
Fallen Slab
The Fallen Slab is located within the mass of huge boulders downstairs from the main Blacknor South...
5
Sport
Sun and shade
Downhill

15 mins

Tidal
99
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  • Latest Comments

    For BLACKNOR BEACH

    Vertical Thrill
    "The belay in the large block at the top have shifted significantly in the last f..." 22/Aug

    Mystical Gill
    "A straight forward pull up onto the slab, then simply walk up on a nice grippy s..." 07/May

    Suburban Dave
    "Now missing a hold as I pulled off a head-sized piece of rock near the start..." 19/Jun

    Diamond Geezer
    "There's now a new route to the left of this starting with an overhang, we reckon..." 13/Jun

    The Bolt Factory
    "Very pleasant but very easy compared to other 4+ on Portland. 3+ perhaps ?" 29/Sep

    Six Good Biceps
    "A great little route, and pretty steep too, but the holds keep coming. Probably..." 26/Sep top50

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