STANAGE POPULAR


Most people's first encounter with Stanage is at the well-named Popular End where there are enough classics for many years of superb climbing. The fact that it is often used as a beginners playground can make the place a bit of a circus at times but, such is the wealth of quality, that you will seldom be stuck for a route to climb.

Routes

366 trad routes (M...E7)
17 boulder problems (V0+ 5a...V9 7C)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Dover's Wall
Doverís Wall is the northern extremity of The Popular End. The last gasp of the superb right-hand...
17
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

BAW's Crawl Area
Although only short, the quality routes on Pedlarís Slab and the BAWíS?Crawl buttress make the area...
14
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

Verandah Buttress
These impressively steep and multiple-stacked overhangs are home to a set of hard climbs. The...
21
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

Roundabout Buttress
This square buttress has a close-packed set of routes and, although only short, they are all steep...
8
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

20 mins

Martello Buttress
Originally named because of a vague resemblance to the Martello Towers, set up on the south coast...
13
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

18 mins

Heaven Crack Area
The fine fissures of Heaven Crack and Hell Crack are the ever-popular showpiece of this sector...
11
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

18 mins

Mississippi Buttress
Perhaps the finest buttress on Stanage, a magnificent jutting bastion of gritstone with a great...
20
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

18 mins

Balcony Buttress
A tall buttress with a heathery ledge at half-height on its front face and the classic of Balcony...
14
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Twin Chimneys Buttress
There is a good section of routes here. These include several short climbs in the bay on the right...
13
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Wuthering
This small area has two major routes: the fierce but well-protected crack of The Asp and the bold...
8
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Robin Hood's Cave Area
Robin Hoodís Cave is hidden on the left, half-way up Robin Hoodís Cave Gully. This superb bivi site...
10
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Desperation
This fine blank wall has two fingery outings. Desperation is hard and popular, Pacific Ocean Wall...
11
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Ellis's Eliminate
The side wall of the classic Inverted V has several worthwhile and popular outings including the...
13
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

Inverted V
Bishopís Route, Inverted V and Robin Hoodís Right-hand Buttress Direct are a trio of superb outings...
20
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

15 mins

April Crack
Superb offerings of April Crack, Christmas Crack and the Trinities, as well as the excellent...
11
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

Rusty Wall
The short wall decorated with a selection of rusty blobs is always popular with the bouldering...
9
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

Hollybush Crack
A very popular area with a fine set of climbs including the classics of Hollybush Crack at VDiff...
13
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

Flying Buttress
One of the most recognisable pieces of gritstone architecture is the steep slab and series of...
15
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

12 mins

Tippler Buttress
An impressive buttress which is home to a fine set of strenuous routes. From the unnerving boldness...
14
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Black Hawk Area
This may just be the most popular section of the most popular cliff in the country and with good...
10
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Manchester Buttress
Maurice Linnell's 1930s Mancunian classic is well worth doing, as is nearby Gargoyle Buttress....
17
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Grotto Slab
Grotto Slab is a popular, worthwhile and very mild beginnerís climb and Heather Wall is one of the...
9
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Rugosity Crack
With the exception of the excellent Rugosity Crack, this section has little in the way of real...
15
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Mantelpiece Buttress
This area feels more like Burbage than Stanage and it is almost always busy with top-ropers and...
17
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

Square Buttress and Suzanne
The final pair of buttresses on the main section of Stanage have a pleasant collection of small...
14
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

10 mins

The Real 20-foot Crack
A small buttress easily seen from the road as it drops over the rim of the moor and heads down...
6
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

5 mins

Apparent North Buttress
A steep buttress seamed by diagonal cracks and home to the biggest concentration of hard routes on...
15
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

5 mins

Grand Theft
To the right of Apparent North Buttress, the edge diminshes into a series of shorter walls...
11
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
 
The Cowper Stone
This isolated block of rock presents Stanage's final outpost, and what a tough task master it is....
14
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

5 mins

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  • Latest Comments

    For STANAGE POPULAR

    Constipation
    "I definitely wanted some spotters to do the lower moves but all the friends seem..." 03/Aug

    Pacific Ocean Wall
    "Can be started in the centre of the wall and then moving slightly left to gain t..." 22/Jul

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Finally !!! After walking past thinking I'll never be good enough. First route o..." 18/Jul top50

    Needle Crack
    "Glad we top-roped this. Unprotected and bad landing. Apparently we shouldn't c..." 30/Apr

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start slab in a sandbag at 5a. May be 5a for people 5'9'' and above. 5b woul..." 23/Aug

    Censor
    "The gear's alright (small, but protects the hard climbing) and there's loads of ..." 20/Aug

    Off With His Head
    "Hard and steep climbing. Powerfull but very well protected." 02/Jun

    Tippler Direct
    "crux move can be done statically (even by the short, I was 5.5 at the time), the..." 28/May top50

    Hargreaves' Original
    "Did this one not long after starting to lead VS and although the moves are all t..." 22/Oct

    Martello Buttress
    "The move off the ground is at least 4c and probably 5a ... unless you find the u..." 17/Sep

    Dover's Wall, Route 1
    "cracking route, nice exciting finish. Not sure where the laybacking comes in Pyt..." 28/Jul

    Wing Buttress
    "Direct start goes at about V6." 18/May

    Cave Gully Wall
    "The start is similar in difficulty and danger to Kayak..." 03/May

    Manchester Buttress
    "Awkward at the top, just above the dragging rope...Anywho, good fun, and a nice ..." 29/Jan

    Inverted V
    "led, forgot how to jam, so pulled up on ledges, great! top L exit." 28/Dec

    The Scoop
    "Easy with one 5a move, vague line and massively dissapointing for a 3 star route..." 26/Oct

    BAW's Crawl
    "Awesome outing, definitely recommended." 06/Oct top50

    Providence
    "A good eliminate, and quite tough. No less short lived than the other one (whic..." 21/Jun

    Thrombosis
    "I seconded this and then led Agony Crack. Agony Crack was easier for sure." 03/Jun

    Ashes
    "Didn't find the bold move reachy at all, and soft for 5c. A beautiful route, if..." 29/May

    Dark Continent
    "Fantastic route, better than many a 3 star 'classic' at Stanage." 27/May

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "Exhilarating stuff!! After a good fall, I got it on second. Back for a rematch ..." 22/May top50

    Heather Wall
    "Led this onsight as my last climb of a full day (just as the heavens opened!). B..." 17/May

    Right Wall Route
    "This route is a real sandbag. The direct finish up the overhang is much much har..." 19/Apr

    Paucity
    "Someone has done a fine job of cleaning out all the insitu ironmongery." 04/Apr

    Massacre
    "Way easier the Mating Toads. Starting move worth 5c. What peculiar grades thes..." 04/Oct

    Heather Wall
    "The easiest VS I have ever led onsight. There are several routes I've led at HS ..." 27/Aug

    Flying Buttress Direct
    "out of the 268 votes, 26 are for E1. I admit that only 12 are for HVS. As i've s..." 19/Aug top50

    Flying Buttress Direct
    ""Total votes cast 268". Look at the size of the E1 bar. Democracy has ..." 16/Aug top50

    Black Hawk Hell Crack
    "Climbed as a second and was really looking forward to just relaxing and enjoying..." 15/Aug top50

    Lancashire Wall
    "VS4c climbing but has a very reach dependent crux fortunately above good gear, f..." 12/Aug

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