Rockfax | Databases | Stanage Popular

Most people\'s first encounter with Stanage is at the well-named Popular End where there are enough classics for many years of superb climbing. The fact that it is often used as a beginners playground can make the place a bit of a circus at times but, such is the wealth of quality, that you will seldom be stuck for a route to climb.

Routes

366 trad routes (M...E7) 17 boulder problems (V0+...V9) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents

Buttress (click for routes)	No. of Routes	Route Type	Sunshine or shade	Approach walk	Other	Page
Dover's Wall Dover’s Wall is the northern extremity of The Popular End. The last gasp of the superb right-hand...	17	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 20 mins	Windy	154
BAW's Crawl Area Although only short, the quality routes on Pedlar’s Slab and the BAW’S?Crawl buttress make the area...	14	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 20 mins	Windy	155
Verandah Buttress These impressively steep and multiple-stacked overhangs are home to a set of hard climbs. The...	21	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 20 mins	Windy	156
Roundabout Buttress This square buttress has a close-packed set of routes and, although only short, they are all steep...	8	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 20 mins	Windy	158
Martello Buttress Originally named because of a vague resemblance to the Martello Towers, set up on the south coast...	13	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 18 mins	Windy	159
Heaven Crack Area The fine fissures of Heaven Crack and Hell Crack are the ever-popular showpiece of this sector...	11	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 18 mins	Windy	160
Mississippi Buttress Perhaps the finest buttress on Stanage, a magnificent jutting bastion of gritstone with a great...	20	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 18 mins	Windy	162
Balcony Buttress A tall buttress with a heathery ledge at half-height on its front face and the classic of Balcony...	14	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 15 mins	Windy	164
Twin Chimneys Buttress There is a good section of routes here. These include several short climbs in the bay on the right...	13	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 15 mins	Windy	165
Wuthering This small area has two major routes: the fierce but well-protected crack of The Asp and the bold...	8	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 15 mins	Windy	166
Robin Hood's Cave Area Robin Hood’s Cave is hidden on the left, half-way up Robin Hood’s Cave Gully. This superb bivi site...	10	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 15 mins	Windy	167
Desperation This fine blank wall has two fingery outings. Desperation is hard and popular, Pacific Ocean Wall...	11	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 15 mins	Windy	168
Ellis's Eliminate The side wall of the classic Inverted V has several worthwhile and popular outings including the...	13	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 15 mins	Windy	169
Inverted V Bishop’s Route, Inverted V and Robin Hood’s Right-hand Buttress Direct are a trio of superb outings...	20	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 15 mins	Windy	170
April Crack Superb offerings of April Crack, Christmas Crack and the Trinities, as well as the excellent...	11	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 12 mins	Windy	172
Rusty Wall The short wall decorated with a selection of rusty blobs is always popular with the bouldering...	9	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 12 mins	Windy	174
Hollybush Crack A very popular area with a fine set of climbs including the classics of Hollybush Crack at VDiff...	13	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 12 mins	Windy	175
Flying Buttress One of the most recognisable pieces of gritstone architecture is the steep slab and series of...	15	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 12 mins	Windy	176
Tippler Buttress An impressive buttress which is home to a fine set of strenuous routes. From the unnerving boldness...	14	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 10 mins	Windy	178
Black Hawk Area This may just be the most popular section of the most popular cliff in the country and with good...	10	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 10 mins	Windy	180
Manchester Buttress Maurice Linnell's 1930s Mancunian classic is well worth doing, as is nearby Gargoyle Buttress....	17	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 10 mins	Windy	182
Grotto Slab Grotto Slab is a popular, worthwhile and very mild beginner’s climb and Heather Wall is one of the...	9	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 10 mins	Windy	184
Rugosity Crack With the exception of the excellent Rugosity Crack, this section has little in the way of real...	15	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 10 mins	Windy	185
Mantelpiece Buttress This area feels more like Burbage than Stanage and it is almost always busy with top-ropers and...	17	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 10 mins	Windy	186
Square Buttress and Suzanne The final pair of buttresses on the main section of Stanage have a pleasant collection of small...	14	Trad	Afternoon sun	Uphill 10 mins	Windy	187
The Real 20-foot Crack A small buttress easily seen from the road as it drops over the rim of the moor and heads down...	6	Trad	Lots of sun!	Uphill 5 mins	Windy	188
Apparent North Buttress A steep buttress seamed by diagonal cracks and home to the biggest concentration of hard routes on...	15	Trad	Lots of sun!	Uphill 5 mins	Windy	189
Grand Theft To the right of Apparent North Buttress, the edge diminshes into a series of shorter walls...	11	Trad	Sun to mid-afternoon		Windy	190
The Cowper Stone This isolated block of rock presents Stanage's final outpost, and what a tough task master it is....	14	Trad	Sun to mid-afternoon	Uphill 5 mins	Windy	191
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