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STANAGE POPULAR

[Robin Hood's Cave Area, 7 kb]Most people\'s first encounter with Stanage is at the well-named Popular End where there are enough classics for many years of superb climbing. The fact that it is often used as a beginners playground can make the place a bit of a circus at times but, such is the wealth of quality, that you will seldom be stuck for a route to climb.

Photo: Robin Hood's Cave Area © ROCKFAX

ROUTES

366 trad routes (M...E7)
17 boulder problems (V0+...V9)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
Dover's Wall
Dover’s Wall is the northern extremity of The Popular End. The last gasp of the superb right-hand...
17 trad afternoon sun uphill
20 mins
windy154
BAW's Crawl Area
Although only short, the quality routes on Pedlar’s Slab and the BAW’S?Crawl buttress make the area...
14 trad afternoon sun uphill
20 mins
windy155
Verandah Buttress
These impressively steep and multiple-stacked overhangs are home to a set of hard climbs. The...
21 trad afternoon sun uphill
20 mins
windy156
Roundabout Buttress
This square buttress has a close-packed set of routes and, although only short, they are all steep...
8 trad afternoon sun uphill
20 mins
windy158
Martello Buttress
Originally named because of a vague resemblance to the Martello Towers, set up on the south coast...
13 trad afternoon sun uphill
18 mins
windy159
Heaven Crack Area
The fine fissures of Heaven Crack and Hell Crack are the ever-popular showpiece of this sector...
11 trad afternoon sun uphill
18 mins
windy160
Mississippi Buttress
Perhaps the finest buttress on Stanage, a magnificent jutting bastion of gritstone with a great...
20 trad afternoon sun uphill
18 mins
windy162
Balcony Buttress
A tall buttress with a heathery ledge at half-height on its front face and the classic of Balcony...
14 trad afternoon sun uphill
15 mins
windy164
Twin Chimneys Buttress
There is a good section of routes here. These include several short climbs in the bay on the right...
13 trad afternoon sun uphill
15 mins
windy165
Wuthering
This small area has two major routes: the fierce but well-protected crack of The Asp and the bold...
8 trad afternoon sun uphill
15 mins
windy166
Robin Hood's Cave Area
Robin Hood’s Cave is hidden on the left, half-way up Robin Hood’s Cave Gully. This superb bivi site...
10 trad afternoon sun uphill
15 mins
windy167
Desperation
This fine blank wall has two fingery outings. Desperation is hard and popular, Pacific Ocean Wall...
11 trad afternoon sun uphill
15 mins
windy168
Ellis's Eliminate
The side wall of the classic Inverted V has several worthwhile and popular outings including the...
13 trad afternoon sun uphill
15 mins
windy169
Inverted V
Bishop’s Route, Inverted V and Robin Hood’s Right-hand Buttress Direct are a trio of superb outings...
20 trad afternoon sun uphill
15 mins
windy170
April Crack
Superb offerings of April Crack, Christmas Crack and the Trinities, as well as the excellent...
11 trad afternoon sun uphill
12 mins
windy172
Rusty Wall
The short wall decorated with a selection of rusty blobs is always popular with the bouldering...
9 trad afternoon sun uphill
12 mins
windy174
Hollybush Crack
A very popular area with a fine set of climbs including the classics of Hollybush Crack at VDiff...
13 trad afternoon sun uphill
12 mins
windy175
Flying Buttress
One of the most recognisable pieces of gritstone architecture is the steep slab and series of...
15 trad afternoon sun uphill
12 mins
windy176
Tippler Buttress
An impressive buttress which is home to a fine set of strenuous routes. From the unnerving boldness...
14 trad afternoon sun uphill
10 mins
windy178
Black Hawk Area
This may just be the most popular section of the most popular cliff in the country and with good...
10 trad afternoon sun uphill
10 mins
windy180
Manchester Buttress
Maurice Linnell's 1930s Mancunian classic is well worth doing, as is nearby Gargoyle Buttress....
17 trad afternoon sun uphill
10 mins
windy182
Grotto Slab
Grotto Slab is a popular, worthwhile and very mild beginner’s climb and Heather Wall is one of the...
9 trad afternoon sun uphill
10 mins
windy184
Rugosity Crack
With the exception of the excellent Rugosity Crack, this section has little in the way of real...
15 trad afternoon sun uphill
10 mins
windy185
Mantelpiece Buttress
This area feels more like Burbage than Stanage and it is almost always busy with top-ropers and...
17 trad afternoon sun uphill
10 mins
windy186
Square Buttress and Suzanne
The final pair of buttresses on the main section of Stanage have a pleasant collection of small...
14 trad afternoon sun uphill
10 mins
windy187
The Real 20-foot Crack
A small buttress easily seen from the road as it drops over the rim of the moor and heads down...
6 trad lots of sun! uphill
5 mins
windy188
Apparent North Buttress
A steep buttress seamed by diagonal cracks and home to the biggest concentration of hard routes on...
15 trad lots of sun! uphill
5 mins
windy189
Grand Theft
To the right of Apparent North Buttress, the edge diminshes into a series of shorter walls...
11 trad sun to mid-afternoon   windy190
The Cowper Stone
This isolated block of rock presents Stanage's final outpost, and what a tough task master it is....
14 trad sun to mid-afternoon uphill
5 mins
windy191
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Latest Comments
STANAGE POPULAR
Heather Wall
"The easiest VS I have ever led onsight. There are several routes I've led at HS ..." 27/Aug

Flying Buttress Direct
"out of the 268 votes, 26 are for E1. I admit that only 12 are for HVS. As i've s..." 19/Aug top50

Flying Buttress Direct
""Total votes cast 268". Look at the size of the E1 bar. Democracy has ..." 16/Aug top50

Black Hawk Hell Crack
"Climbed as a second and was really looking forward to just relaxing and enjoying..." 15/Aug top50

Lancashire Wall
"VS4c climbing but has a very reach dependent crux fortunately above good gear, f..." 12/Aug

Yosemite Wall
"Great fun, soft at the grade but light on gear, so low E2 is probably fair. Some..." 09/Aug

Cakestand
"I'm short so I would say it's a hard S. Good climb though" 23/Jun

Centre Stage
"Good climbing, but no line. Constantly escapable. Oh look, FA 1993. I have a ..." 22/Jun

Lancashire Wall
"HVS? My arse." 18/Jun

Thrombosis
"Did Centre Stage, Agony Crack then Thrombosis, and this one was hardest of the t..." 17/Jun

Mississippi Variant Direct
"@ 5'10" I just about made the reach off the undercut (just get your feet hi..." 14/Jun

Hollybush Crack
"Lovely climb! For my money, felt at harder end of the grade; buried a nut in the..." 13/Jun top50

Christmas Crack
"2nd grit climb getting used to this stuff now." 05/Jun top50

Tinker's Crack
"Don't understand most of these comments. Lovely route, felt easier than Manches..." 24/May

Ellis's Eliminate
"intimidated by this climb for years finally did it very comfotably . where crack..." 24/May

Finale Direct
"It felt intimidating rather than hard to me, I recall feet jammed in the break a..." 21/May

Central Trinity
"Pretty much benchmark VS I would say. The initial crack is straightforward with..." 14/May

Finale Direct
"Sloper says on Finale that this is worth Font 7a. I tried it (but not very seri..." 12/May

The Guillotine
"Is it acceptable to do the second traverse (R->L) using slopers just above th..." 10/May

Ice Boat
"Another one of those funny gritstone grades. No, it's not safe 5c, it's 5c high..." 09/May

Centre Stage
"Good route, shame the middle bit isn't a little harder. My 5'2" girlfriend..." 28/Apr

Dry Rot
"Lovely route, appropriately graded and deserves a star" 22/Apr

Rusty Crack
"Fell off this on first attempt, lower off tried again and got the start, above i..." 17/Apr

Wuthering
"Andy Hobson's description is bang on. You don't need to be that tall for this, ..." 15/Apr top50

Flying Buttress
"Beautiful - would happily climb this all day!" 09/Apr top50

Black Hawk Bastion
"Yes, it is hard at the crux. However, careful gear on both ropes will keep you p..." 22/Mar

Balcony Cracks
"I thought the final wall made it harder than Balcony Climb - or was it just that..." 05/Mar

The Link
"The bit after the overhang is the crux...how many onsites head up there with a c..." 28/Nov top50

Soft Shoe
"Well protected with small nuts and cams at the top, fine wine top out which is e..." 01/Nov

Jaygo's Pipe
"Sticking direct to the centre of the buttress felt quite commiting." 28/Oct

Twin Chimneys Buttress
"Very good E3 5c up the face left of the arete of Twin Chimneys Buttress - Bill &..." 19/Oct

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