This is the fine peak to west of Tarascon and east of Calamès. It has three main developed sectors, though sadly at the moment one of these is banned - the Grande Paroi, the tall buttress directly below the summit of the mountain. There are several mid-grade multi-pitch routes here but currently climbing is not allowed because of fears about rockfall. That leaves us with the fiercely overhanging test-pieces of the Dévers (Overhangs) and the soaring pitches of the Cimetière des Boucs - both of which are well worth a visit if you are up to the grades and/or approach walk. We also cover the quarry at Bédeilhac but that is hardly a selling point.
Routes
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77 sport routes (4+...8c) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Bédeilhac Quarry Probably the least significant crag in the book - actually, make that a deffo! Six routes on... |
6 | Sport |
No sun |
Roadside 0 mins |
Seepage | 107 |
| Dévers du Sédour A fantastic crag for the 7c and above climber, with some tufa features and some conglomerate on the... |
42 | Sport |
Afternoon sun |
Uphill 25 mins |
Seepage Dry in the Rain Windy Restricted Access aNo climbing between 1st Feb and 30th June due to nesting birds. | 108 |
| Le Cimetière des Boucs - Falaise Inférieure A superbly situated crag with a fairly arduous approach, and a great set of routes once you are... |
13 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 40 mins |
Windy Restricted Access aNo climbing between 1st Feb and 30 June due to nesting birds. | 112 |
| Le Cimetière des Boucs - Falaise Supérieure A fine cliff, overshadowed by big brother but with a fine set of hard routes. |
16 | Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Uphill 40 mins |
Windy Restricted Access aNo climbing between 1st Feb and 30 June due to nesting birds. | 114 |
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