BURBAGE NORTH


Burbage North is a popular spot because its great accessibility makes it a regular haunt of many climbers. Unlike its darker sister, Burbage South, it has a reputation for friendly routes in a picturesque setting. Fine summer evenings will see the place swarming with locals grabbing a quick route or two before the sun goes down. Its accessibility and great supply of short and easy routes means that it is also popular with Outdoor Centres, although they tend to stick to the initial sections; a three minute extension to your approach walk will always reduce any crowds.
Burbage North doesn't have any mega-classic climbs, though there is hardly a poor route on the whole cliff. The rock is the same quality as on the other edges, but overall the crag is on a smaller scale. Often you will only have time to place a couple of runners before topping out, which is why the place is so popular with boulderers and soloists.

Routes

197 trad routes (M...D)
25 boulder problems (f5...f8A)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
The Chant
The first part of Burbage offers bouldering and short routes and is always busy. The routes are...
18
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

2 mins

Windy
Triangle Buttress
The second section of the edge has a fair selection of lower-grade climbs and more good bouldering...
12
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

2 mins

Seepage
Windy
Banana Finger
This renowned buttress of tiered overhangs is home to the classic Banana Finger boulder problem and...
6
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

3 mins

Windy
Overhanging Buttress
A popular buttress with instructors because of a short approach march and some decent easy routes....
11
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

3 mins

Windy
All Quiet Area
Up the slope to the left from Remergence Buttress is a short wall split centrally by a wide crack....
5
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

5 mins

Windy
Remergence Buttress
An impressive buttress, the classics of Mutiny Crack and Remergence are test-pieces from two...
21
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

5 mins

Windy
Ash Tree Wall
A good selection of lower grade routes with some mild cracks that make the area worth a visit for...
31
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

10 mins

Windy
The Sentinel
Southwards from Ash Tree Wall, Burbage starts to become more impressive as a good series of jutting...
24
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

15 mins

Windy
Knight's Move
Next is the tallest buttress on the edge, easily recognised by a large overhang on the right. There...
15
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

15 mins

Windy
Twin Chimneys to Tharf Cake
The section of edge between Knight's Move and Long Tall Sally tends to be quiet, but tucked behind...
29
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

12 mins

Windy
Brooks' Layback
A fine area on the north end of the longest continuous section of the edge. It has a decent...
11
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

20 mins

Windy
Long Tall Sally
A great set of routes and well worth the walk. Amazon Crack gives superb jamming, the blank corner...
27
Trad
No sun
Up and down

0 mins

Windy
End Slab
Burbage North's last gasp has some pleasant slabs that might interest those in search of an easy...
12
Trad
Early morning sun
Level

20 mins

Windy
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  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE NORTH

    Pickpocket
    "Changed from VS 4c to VS 4c *, 0% of 1 vote for *" 23/Mar

    Submission
    "This only felt about VS 4b - I think the move is reach dependent (I'm 6' 0"..." 05/Nov

    Peter's Progress
    "Climbed direct up the incipient crack above the tree at the end of the traverse...." 01/Jun

    Nicotine Stain
    "Changed from V4 6B 6b * to V4 6B *, no votes" 28/May

    Side Face
    "Balancy moves, easier for the tall. It's all in the initial move for the break.T..." 11/Jun

    Remergence
    "Sandbag or not, it is still a route and the crux is the desperate long reach at ..." 02/Jun

    Ash Tree Variations
    "The correct name of this route is Ash Tree Variation, not 'Variations'" 22/Apr

    The Chant Direct Finish
    "Solid 6a using small crimps if you can't reach from the good footholds or span f..." 29/Nov

    Bilberry Cake
    "Don't lead harder than VS but didn't find this too difficult, certainly easier c..." 19/Nov

    Hollyash Crack
    "I don't see how you protect this without giant cams. It goes as a good layback ..." 30/Jul

    Bilberry Cake
    "Agree with above, no way HVS - More like HS 4c. Not a bad little one move route ..." 24/May

    Knight's Move
    "The moves weren't too difficult but I wasn't totally happy with the gear in the ..." 21/Nov

    Now or Never
    "Good climbing and well protected, take a friend 3.5 to protect the crucial barn ..." 27/Oct

    Approach
    "Five years later it still feels E2." 23/Jun

    Greeny Crack
    "Top route, got the heart going without desperation. Ankle/knee jam in the crack ..." 04/May

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