BURBAGE NORTH


Burbage North is one of the favourite locations of many climbers. Unlike its dark counterpart to the south, or the intimidating bulk of Higgar to the west, its reputation is one of friendly routes in a picturesque setting. Fine summer evenings will see the place swarming with enthusiastic locals grabbing a quick route or two, or doing a spot of bouldering before the sun goes down. Its proximity to the road, and plentiful short and amenably-graded routes, means that it is also popular with outdoor centres although they tend to focus their activity on the initial sections and a short 3 minute extension to your approach walk will significantly reduce the crowds. As a crag it has less to offer in the mega-classic category, compared to it near-neighbours, however there is hardly a bad route on the edge and certainly all of the ones described here are worth doing. The rock is much the same quality as on the other edges but overall the crag is on a smaller scale. Often you will only have time to place a couple of runners before the top is reached, which is why the place is so popular with boulderers and soloists.

Routes

184 trad routes (M...E8)
12 boulder problems (V1...V7)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other Page
The Chant
The first section of Burbage North offers plenty of bouldering and short routes which are always...
15
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

2 mins

196
Triangle Buttress
The second section of the edge has a fair selection of lower-grade climbs and more good bouldering...
11
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

2 mins

197
Banana Finger and Overhang Butt
A legendary buttress of tiered overhangs which is home to the classic Banana Finger boulder problem...
13
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

3 mins

198
Eastern Front and Grogan
The wall left of Remergence Buttress is split by three slanting cracks. On the far left the...
14
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

5 mins

200
Remergence Buttress
The most impressive buttress at this end of Burbage North is the tiered roofs of Remergence. The...
12
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

5 mins

201
Ash Tree Wall
A good selection of lower grade routes that are usually quieter than you might expect on such a...
25
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

10 mins

202
The Sentinel
Southwards from Ash Tree Wall, Burbage North starts to become more impressive as a good series of...
11
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

15 mins

204
The Grazer
Another selection of cracks and chimneys - if your jamming is not up to 'scratch' then this area...
11
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

20 mins

205
Knights Move
To the right is the tallest buttress on the edge, easily recognised by a large overhang on the...
13
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

15 mins

206
Twin Chimneys and Falstaff's Are
The section of edge between Knight's Move and the more popular walls further to the south tends to...
23
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

18 mins

208
Tharf Cake and Brooks' Layback
A fine area that has a good collection of lower-grade routes that are quite short and usually...
17
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

20 mins

210
Long Tall Sally
Possibly the best selection of routes on the cliff and well worth the walk. Amazon Crack gives...
12
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

20 mins

211
Nicotine Stain and End Slab
Burbage North’s last gasp has some good micro-routes on quality rock, and a couple of pleasant...
19
Trad
Sun from mid-morning
Level

25 mins

212
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  • Latest Comments

    For BURBAGE NORTH

    Side Face
    "Balancy moves, easier for the tall. It's all in the initial move for the break.T..." 11/Jun

    Remergence
    "Sandbag or not, it is still a route and the crux is the desperate long reach at ..." 02/Jun

    Ash Tree Variations
    "The correct name of this route is Ash Tree Variation, not 'Variations'" 22/Apr

    The Chant Direct Finish
    "Solid 6a using small crimps if you can't reach from the good footholds or span f..." 29/Nov

    Bilberry Cake
    "Don't lead harder than VS but didn't find this too difficult, certainly easier c..." 19/Nov

    Hollyash Crack
    "I don't see how you protect this without giant cams. It goes as a good layback ..." 30/Jul

    Bilberry Cake
    "Agree with above, no way HVS - More like HS 4c. Not a bad little one move route ..." 24/May

    Knight's Move
    "The moves weren't too difficult but I wasn't totally happy with the gear in the ..." 21/Nov

    Now or Never
    "Good climbing and well protected, take a friend 3.5 to protect the crucial barn ..." 27/Oct

    Approach
    "Five years later it still feels E2." 23/Jun

    Greeny Crack
    "Top route, got the heart going without desperation. Ankle/knee jam in the crack ..." 04/May

    Green Slab
    "John - Not at bouldering height, no, it's VS." 20/Feb

    Long Tall Sally
    "the start to this is easy just one side pull to the pocket rather than using all..." 04/Oct

    Alpha Crack
    "A real soft touch, easier than Left Twin Crack and if Mutiny Crack is HS, then t..." 05/Sep

    Wobblestone Crack
    "Start much harder than on other routes nearby. Probably worth 4b at least." 05/Sep

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