NORTH STACK AND MAIN CLIFF


The Main Cliff area of Gogarth extends from the Upper Tier at one end through to North Stack at the other. It is a long complex area with numerous sections, all of which have different approaches. The climbing is adventurous and occasionally on loose rock, although it is far more solid than some of the South Stack cliffs. For many climbers this section of sea cliff is one of the most impressive in the UK with routes that match the stature of the cliffs.

Routes

59 trad routes (VS...E7)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
North Stack Wall
A cliff with a massive reputation and home to many serious chop routes, although there are some...
7
Trad
Lots of sun!
Up and down

20 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Flytrap Zawn
A small area with a couple of under-climbed gems and one incredible expedition. Flytrap can remain...
3
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and down

20 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Restricted Access
Wen Zawn
A great area with a couple of excellent routes, Britomartis makes a fine addition to your day...
8
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and down

20 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Main Cliff
A committing area to reach, but the effort of the approach is rewarded by a collection of fine...
18
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and down

20 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Easter Island Gully
A good area that is committing to reach and seldom busy. Approach (see map on page 278) - From the...
4
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and down

20 mins

Abseil
Tidal
Upper Tier
The Upper Tier of Main Cliff offers some great climbs in a sea cliff setting, but without all the...
19
Trad
Afternoon sun
Up and down

25 mins

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