The little twin sister of Castle Naze, here again the climbs are generally short but well worth doing. The cliff faces west and gets both the afternoon sun and the wind Finding belays at the top of the cliff sometimes requires a bit of cunning, an extra length of rope might be found useful to extend those that lie a long way back. Some belay stakes may be added in the near future, whether these are to help climbers belay at the top of the cliff, or to facilitate the fixing of top ropes for instructional groups is open to question.
Routes
|
67 trad routes (M...E1) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents |        | ||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Christmas Buttress An isolated buttress which isn't included in the Rockfax guidebook. |
5 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Uphill 1 min |
Windy | - |
| North Buttress The tall blocky buttress 120m left of the gate can be recognised by the widening upper section of... |
11 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Uphill 1 min |
Windy | 112 |
| Middle Buttress An attractive buttress towards the middle of the cliff and split by a series of cracks and with a... |
11 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Uphill 1 min |
Windy | 113 |
| High Buttress The most popular buttress on the cliff and with good reasons; it is the tallest piece of rock here... |
10 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Uphill 1 min |
Windy | 114 |
| Buttress 2 A close-packed set of worthwhile routes ensures the popularity of this buttress, as does the fact... |
12 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Uphill 1 min |
Windy | 115 |
| Buttress 1 There are only a small set of worthwhile routes on Buttress One but that means it tends to be... |
4 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Uphill 1 min |
Windy | 116 |
| South Buttress The most southerly buttress here takes the form of a large square block of rock with a cave/recess... |
14 | Trad |
Sun from mid-morning |
Uphill 1 min |
Windy | - |
| What do these symbols mean? | ||||||