TREMADOG (BWLCH Y MOCH)


Being situated a stone's throw from Eric's Cafe and the road, and with a significantly more reliable climate than the mountain crags, are the reasons why Bwlch y Moch is the most popular crag in North Wales. However it isn't just the weather and easy access that appeal, it is the spread of brilliant routes across the grades that ensure its popularity. Although there aren't many routes at the very easiest grades, from Boo Boo Left-hand at Diff upwards there are classics to pick off at every grade up to Strawberries at a dizzying E7.

Routes

49 trad routes (D...E7)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
The Plum
This buttress features some great rock above dense and sprawling vegetation. It includes two of the...
3
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

4 mins

sheltered
Valerie's Rib Area
The popular rib and steep grooves on its right-hand side give contrasting routes. Further right is...
5
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

4 mins

sheltered
The Fang
The main feature here is the prominent 'fang' of rock, around which the routes Fang and Extraction...
3
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

4 mins

sheltered
One Step in the Clouds
Approach (see map on page 239) - From the carpark walk along the road to a lay-by on the left just...
3
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

4 mins

sheltered
Vector Buttress
The most celebrated buttress at Tremadog is home to many fine routes most of which are firmly...
8
Trad
Sun to mid-afternoon
Uphill

4 mins

sheltered
Grim Wall
A popular wall with some good mid-grade routes. The lines are intricate with interesting climbing...
7
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
Leg Slip
One of the quieter buttresses at Bwlch y Moch with a set of technical groove climbs. The two Slip...
5
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
Merlin Direct
An imposing buttress with a steep face and a polished slab. The easier routes see plenty of...
8
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

5 mins

sheltered
Boo Boo
As the crag tapers away, there are a couple of decent buttresses sticking up out of the trees that...
1
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

6 mins

sheltered
Yogi Area
Just beyond Boo Boo Buttress there is another collection of moderately-graded routes, well worth...
6
Trad
Lots of sun!
Uphill

6 mins

sheltered
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  • Latest Comments

    For TREMADOG (BWLCH Y MOCH)

    Valerie's Rib
    "Changed from HS ** to HS 4b **, no votes" 11/Oct

    The Neb Direct
    "Your description of pitch 1 is hopelessly out of date. see the current CC guide ..." 06/Jun

    Shadrach
    "The exit from the chimney as at the opposite side from where you enter. On pitc..." 05/Jun

    The Plum
    "2nd 1993. Superb!" 20/Feb top50

    Daddy Cool
    "Dissapointing" 15/Dec

    The Weaver
    "Not the only mistake in this guide: see also Spectre (Clogwyn y Grochan) & N..." 03/Aug

    The Weaver
    "A mistake!? In a Wrongfax guide? Surely it would be easier to list proof-read an..." 21/Jun

    Shadrach
    "Get into the chimney?? There's no way out at the top! Has anyone actually done t..." 11/Jun

    The Brothers
    "First pitch is a gearless off width!" 03/May

    Daddy Cool
    "A wandering combination of pitches give a very worthwhile outing." 29/Sep

    Valerie's Rib
    "I have done this route dozens of times and know the route pretty well but I can'..." 02/Aug

    Vector
    "It appears common to link pitches 1 and 2, although I didn't realise this until ..." 31/May top50

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