CASTLE NAZE


A drafty little outcrop in a pleasant, west-facing situation, and when combined with the nearby Windgather can be considered Western Grit's answer to the Burbage outcrops. The climbs are generally short but well worth doing. Finding belays at the top of the cliff sometimes requires a bit of cunning, an extra length of rope might be found useful.

Routes

78 trad routes (M...E4)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Pinnacle Area
The left-hand side of the cliff has an excellent collection of lower-grade climbs on quality rock....
18
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

Pilgrim's Progress Area
A fine set of climbs in the S and HS categories which mostly follow good crack systems. Some of the...
16
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

The Scoop Area
The central part of the cliff has its best known feature climbed by its most famous route; Scoop...
12
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

The Crack Area
The tallest buttress on the cliff and home to some of the very best outings here. Routes such as...
12
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

5 mins

Central Tower
The second most impressive part of the cliff has a small selection of worthwhile climbs in a...
9
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

8 mins

Far Right
The final section of castle Naze is a series of small buttresses perched above a steep rocky slope....
11
Trad
Afternoon sun
Uphill

8 mins

What do these symbols mean?
  • Access Issues for Western Grit


  • Latest Comments

    For CASTLE NAZE

    Syringe Benefit
    "Nice climbing, and looked much cleaner than Morocc'n Roll (which had weeds growi..." 20/May

    Scoop Face Direct
    "Prob E1 5C due to polish low down. Crux rockover has good holds - less so for ha..." 16/Sep

    Pod Crack
    "Definitely E2 6a" 03/Jul

    Ledgeway
    "Safe as houses and tough 5b" 09/May

    Morocc'n Roll
    "HVS 5b" 09/May

    Muscle Crack
    "Listed as Severe in the 2009 edition of Western Grit. The top was definately a ..." 04/May

    Nozag
    "Probably the best route at the crag, but would only get one star elsewhere. Low..." 28/Aug

    Combs Climb
    "Avoiding holds in the routes to the left or right is nie-on impossible and would..." 10/Aug

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