The River Wye continues from Chee Dale to cut another less-imposing dale characterised by sweeping river bends below some compact buttresses of rock. In many ways Water-cum-Jolly lives in the shadow of its more illustrious neighbour - the routes are shorter, the buttresses smaller, and the setting less dramatic but no less picturesque. This is the place for the connoisseur of Peak Limestone to seek out forgotten gems on the Upper Circle or on Central Buttress, do battle with technical wall climbs at Rubicon, or launch themselves across the steepening wave of the Cornice. In summer, each of the buttresses stands in isolation from the others, sheltered by the trees and, with the exception of Rubicon Wall, your only companions are likely to be one or two other climbers and then only on busy weekends. From the climber's point of view, some of WCJ is suffering from neglect. Routes on isolated sections of the Upper Circle, Moat Buttress and Central Buttress see few ascents these days. Ivy has taken over on certain sections and the rock has returned to a natural but loose and unpredictable state. It is perhaps time that we reassessed the climbing on some of these locations before they become forgotten altogether.
Routes
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167 trad routes (D...8b+) 90 sport routes (6b...8c+) 3 boulder problems (V3...V9) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other | Page |
| Vision Buttress Vision Buttress is the first crag encountered on the Litton Mill approach and offers two hard... |
5 | Trad |
Sun and shade |
Up and down 0 mins |
Windy | 228 |
| Jackdaw Point A neglected buttress with a neat little set of mid-grade routes. Most of the gear is good, but... |
15 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 20 mins |
a Access - This buttress is in the wildlife reserve managed by D | 229 |
| Upper Circle The ring of cliffs along the northern slopes of the dale continues from Jackdaw Point, though most... |
21 | Trad |
Morning sun |
Level 20 mins |
230 | |
| Ping Pong Area This area has two isolated buttresses with a few quality routes between them. Mandrake Buttress is... |
23 | Trad |
Afternoon sun |
Uphill 25 mins |
232 | |
| Lammergeyer Buttress This buttress has been almost entirely ignored for many years and all the routes should be... |
16 | Trad |
Sun and shade |
Level 12 mins |
Seepage Dry in the Rain | 234 |
| Rubicon Left The most celebrated buttress in Water-cum-Jolly is the splendid sweep of rock known as Rubicon... |
40 | Trad |
Lots of sun! |
Level 5 mins |
Seepage Dry in the Rain | 236 |
| Rubicon Right The right-hand side of Rubicon Wall is probably more popular these days with boulderers... |
18 | Trad and Sport |
Lots of sun! |
Level 5 mins |
Seepage Dry in the Rain | 240 |
| Moat Buttress Moat Buttress's Gold Rush year was way back in 1988; the Rubicon dam burst, and climbers flocked to... |
27 | Trad |
Evening sun |
Up and down 20 mins |
Seepage | 242 |
| Crunch Buttress The steep wall, passed on the way to Moat Buttress, has been developed with some intense and hard... |
16 | Trad |
Evening sun |
Up and down 20 mins |
Seepage Dry in the Rain | 244 |
| The Cornice The second of the Peak's Cornices is in the form of a single crashing wave of rock which befits its... |
30 | Trad |
No sun |
Up and down 25 mins |
Seepage Dry in the Rain | 246 |
| Witchcraft Wall A small wall, upstream from the Cornice, with a few routes including one worthwhile sport route. |
4 | Trad |
Morning sun |
Up and down 20 mins |
- | |
| Central Buttress The biggest crag in the dale was once popular, and routes like Behemoth and La Chute were amongst... |
48 | Trad |
Evening sun |
Up and down 20 mins |
Seepage | 250 |
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