WATER-CUM-JOLLY


The River Wye continues south and west from Chee Dale, past Miller's Dale, into Water-cum-Jolly. In many ways this is Chee Dale's neglected little sister, the routes and buttresses are shorter and often the rock is of a lesser quality. On the plus side, a good track runs through the valley, it has a pleasant open aspect and quite a number of the cliffs catch the sun, with another set offering shady retreat in hot weather. Many of the routes in Water-cum-Jolly have been neglected in recent years. Those which rely on fixed gear are slowly being rebolted but others should be regarded now as unclimbable. This is especially true on Lammergeyer Buttress, and some of Moat and Central Buttresses - these routes have been included in this book since they may be rebolted in the future. Apart from the ever-popular Rubicon Wall, and the Cornice when it is in condition, you are very likely to have most of the routes here to yourself.

Routes

161 trad routes (D...E7)
120 sport routes (6b...8c+)
3 boulder problems (V3...V9)
Graded List of Routes
List of First Ascents
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Buttress (click for routes) No. of Routes Route Type Sunshine
or shade
Approach walk Other
Jackdaw Point
A neglected buttress with a neat little set of mid-grade routes. Most of the gear is good, but...
13
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

20 mins

sheltered
Upper Circle
The ring of cliffs along the northern slopes of the dale continues from Jackdaw Point, though most...
15
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

20 mins

sheltered
Ping Pong Area
This area has two isolated buttresses with a few quality routes between them. Mandrake Buttress is...
8
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

25 mins

sheltered
Lammergeyer Buttress
This buttress has been almost entirely ignored for many years and all the routes should be...
13
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

12 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Rubicon Left
The most celebrated buttress in Water-cum-Jolly is the splendid sweep of rock known as Rubicon...
35
Trad
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Rubicon Right
The right-hand side of Rubicon Wall is probably more popular these days with boulderers...
15
Trad and Sport
Sun and shade
Level

5 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Moat Buttress
Moat Buttress's Gold Rush year was way back in 1988; the Rubicon dam burst, and climbers flocked to...
23
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

20 mins

Seepage
sheltered
Majorca Crunch Buttress
The steep wall, passed on the way to Moat Buttress, has been developed with some intense and hard...
22
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

20 mins

Seepage
sheltered
The Cornice
The second of the Peak's Cornices is in the form of a single crashing wave of rock which befits its...
23
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

25 mins

Seepage
Dry in the Rain
sheltered
Central Buttress
The biggest crag in the dale was once popular, and routes like Behemoth and La Chute were amongst...
59
Trad
Sun and shade
Up and down

20 mins

Seepage
sheltered
What do these symbols mean?
  • Access Issues for Peak Limestone


  • Latest Comments

    For WATER-CUM-JOLLY

    Rhyme and Reason
    "Changed from 6c 6a * to 6c *, no votes" 27/May

    Coot
    "Looks like a lot of the routes on this wall could do with some TLC and maybe so..." 04/Sep

    Desmond Douglas
    "Good little route, nice safe fall from crux if you fail first go !" 02/Aug

    Ping
    "Maybe it was because we had just done Ping Pong and Erithaca (both hard E1), but..." 12/Apr

    Sheerwater
    "On the first ascent Al Evans led the (crux) second pitch." 18/Dec

    Zeke the Freak
    "The original line must be the harder of the two. 8b either way as you've done th..." 22/Sep

    St. Paul
    "Peg was utterly rubbish, more hazard than protection, removed Aug 09." 23/Aug

    Knuckle Knocker
    "nicely put Jez! Distinctly wobbly and quite tricky and dirty, but sort of satisf..." 22/Aug

    Ping Pong
    "Used the tree to start, having consulted the definitive guide. Didn't feel soft ..." 14/Aug

    Deception
    "fairly solid E4 without the peg, which it doesn't really need. There are enough ..." 09/May

    A Miller's Tale
    "replace pegs?" 09/Mar

    Zeke the Freak
    "New bolts and lower off, including an extra dogging bolt making it much easier t..." 03/Nov

    Salar
    "Actually I changed my mind, hard 7c+ I reckon having climbed some stuff abroad r..." 02/Sep

    Fledgling Flakes
    "Not a bad route for limestone. Decent line and some good moves up the flakes, to..." 25/Aug

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