Not to be confused with its even more remote namesake in the Eastern Peak, this fine cliff has a good selection of routes and is rarely busy, the flog to get there being the main reason the place stays so quiet. It faces west and north west and is at its best on warm summer evenings when the many lower grade climbs can be enjoyed to the full. Below and to the south west of the main Dovestones Edge are three large rambling quarries on the hillside overlooking the reservoir. All the main lines have been done but the Main Quarry in particular has a habit of falling down big-style. In thirty odd years of climbing in the Peak I have only visited the Main Quarry once, to find the top pitch of our chosen objective missing. We did the route anyway - but I vowed never to return, and never have!
Routes
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81 trad routes (M...E5) Graded List of Routes List of First Ascents | |||
| Buttress (click for routes) | No. of Routes | Route Type | Sunshine or shade |
Approach walk | Other |
| Nasal Buttress Area No buttress descriptions have been included yet. |
31 | Trad |
Evening sun |
Uphill 25 mins |
Windy |
| Mammoth Slab Area No buttress descriptions have been included yet. |
20 | Trad |
Evening sun |
Uphill 25 mins |
Windy |
| Answer Crack Area No buttress descriptions have been included yet. |
30 | Trad |
Evening sun |
Uphill 25 mins |
Windy |
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