Access Blog

If you have information on a new issue in a Rockfax guidebook area then please Submit an Access Issue.


Fire at Orgon

A large forest fire has ravaged the land around the village and crags at Orgon resulting in some damage and restricted access at the present time. News reports suggest that the fire was probably started deliberately but it has now … Continue reading…


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Smiley Face is now Sad Face – Sagres – DWS

We’re sorry to report that the Smiley Face headwall at Ingrina in Portugal is now located in the Atlantic ocean. This is quite a shame as although it only had seven routes on it, four of them were in the … Continue reading…


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Portland Olympic Access, New Routes and Re-bolting

With the Olympics imminent it seems timely to give some information on whether they will have any influence on the access to Portland and any of the climbing sites. The Portland BMC rep Neal Heanes lives on Portland and has … Continue reading…


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Pembroke Range Fully Open in August

The firing times for August have just been released and Range East will be fully open for the whole of August, as on previous years. All the annual restrictions for nesting birds have also now been lifted. This means no … Continue reading…


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Port Soller Open

Back in 1993 I went to Mallorca armed with limited information and tops to a handful of crags. One classic description said – drive to Port de Soller and follow the fish – and this turned out to be all … Continue reading…


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Gorges du Tarn – Update

The following was posted on UKC by Luke Brooks on 14 June. Just got back from the Tarn and it seems the re-bolting campaign is very much still in progress.  Sectors De Que Fas Aqui, Figues au Cul, Club House, … Continue reading…


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Harpur Hill Parking – Update

There are some new parking problems at Harpur Hill which have developed since the publication of the new guidebook. The situation is very sensitive at the moment due to the area known as the ‘Blue Lagoon’ being used by all … Continue reading…


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Pembroke – June 2012 Range Closures

Range East closures for 2012 are mid-week days from May 14th to June 22nd. There will also be night firing on all Tuesdays and Thursdays during this period. The second closure dates are mid week days June 25th to July 20th … Continue reading…


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Hen Cloud – Nesting Access Issue

Restrictions apply from 1st March - 30th June. Reason for Nesting Birds The peregrines are nesting on Hen Cloud again. Please don’t climb between Nutted by Reality to Easy Gully, page 82 to 85 Western Grit. The Peak District National Park Authority … Continue reading…


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Gorges du Tarn – Access Update

Olivier Obin, a climber in the Gorges du Tarn Area, has given us a brief update on the access situation in the Gorges du Tarn. When the France : Languedoc Roussillon book was published, quite a lot of the climbing … Continue reading…


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