On Friday 2 March a group of us walked down Water-cum-Jolly to discuss access to the various crags with Derbyshire Wildlife Trust (DWT) and the local water bailiff. The climbers were represented by BMC stalwart Henry Folkard, BMC Access Officer … Continue reading…
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Knot Safety
A few weeks ago Boulders Climbing Wall in Cardiff announced a policy that they were banning the use of the bowline knot to tie on at their walls (UKC thread here and article on Boulders website here). This follows two … Continue reading…
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Rockfax and Local Bolt Funds
I was recently in the South of France working on a selective guidebook to the sport climbing in the area. There has been a lot debate taking place on the rights and wrongs of guidebooks that are not produced by … Continue reading…
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Climbers at Downing Street
Meeting the Prime Minister….. well we would have done had it not been for some trivial issue connected with global financial meltdown. Despite the PM not being there I have to say that this was a really fun day. Just … Continue reading…
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A Lofoten Diary
Day 1 - Long drive up through so much impressive rock scenery that we banned the comment “I wonder if there is anything up that?” We stopped at one of the many superb little campsites that Norway specialises in with a … Continue reading…
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Lads Trip to Wales
I had promised Sam a ‘lads trip’ to Wales – his sister had gone with Henriette to Berlin last year and, although the trade may not seem a fair one, Sam seemed happy enough with it. So it was with … Continue reading…
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Typos
Typos – don’t ya’ just hate ‘em! The little tinkers lurk menacingly around a text as you construct it trying to jump in when you are not looking. Lazy or slow ones may get spotted, but most sneak through, especially … Continue reading…
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Espolón Central – Anyone climbed it?
One of the best known routes in the Blanca is the magnificent ridge of Espolón Central on the Puig. The fact that you can see it from the motorway as you drive up and down the coast means that virtually … Continue reading…
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Reflections on the Guidebook Debate of 2001
I was thinking back to 2001 the other day after hearing news of Mike Robertson’s Deep Water Rockfax winning of the Mountain Exposition Award at the Banff Book Festival. 2001 was the year that Chris Craggs and I teamed up to publish Peak … Continue reading…
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Carreg Alltrem and the variations of the mid-grades
After a great day climbing on Tryfan on Saturday, and a fairly disappointing evening watching the Rugby, we looked for somewhere off the beaten track on Sunday since the Pass looked a little crowded and cloudy and our chosen crag … Continue reading…
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