Rockfax and Bolt Fund / ACT Donations

Since January this year we have been running ‘point of sale’ donations on books bought direct from the Rockfax web site. These have started to bring in a little bit of cash to some of the bolt funds and the BMC Access and Conservation Trust (ACT).

In addition to these PofS donations from people buying the books, we have committed to donating £1 from the Rockfax proceeds to the appropriate Bolt Fund or the ACT for all sales of our main books made direct from the web site. We will implement this from 1 Jan 2013 and have just made the first round of donations to the ACT, the Dorset Bolt Fund and Gary Gibson Bolt Fund.

The Bolt Funds which feature with our book sales are all the ones included on UKBoltFund.org. This means that our books to some sport climbing areas (mostly the ones in France and Spain) aren’t included. This is because we aren’t aware of any bolt funds in these areas. We would be very happy to include more bolt funds in our lists. If you would like your bolt fund featured here please get in touch to discuss it.

For the forthcoming North Wales Climbs, Rockfax will be giving a special donation of £1 per book to the North Wales Bolt Fund from the first 1500 copies sold anywhere. After that it will revert to the £1 per online sale system operated with the other books.



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North Wales Climbs to Support the North Wales Bolt Fund

The forthcoming North Wales Climbs guidebook, due for publication this autumn, covers several sport climbing areas on the Slate and North Wales Limestone. The sport routes in these areas rely on the bolting efforts of local climbers which are co-ordinated via the North Wales Bolt Fund.

Colin Goodey Rebolting at Castle Inn Quarry. Photo: NWBF

Rockfax are happy to have been able to support the North Wales Bolt Fund via our UKBoltFund.org site for the last 3 years and we are grateful to everyone that has donated money by whatever route. We have also recently added point-of-sale donation options for our online sales which direct people at the bolt fund associated with the local area they cover when purchasing a guidebook direct from the Rockfax web site, and this will be added for the North Wales Climbs guide when that book is published.

However, the North Wales Bolt Fund is a very active bolt fund which has spent over £12,000 over the last few years and has plans for a number of new initiatives, particularly in the limestone area. More funds are needed which is why we welcome the proposed new definitive guidebook to North Wales Limestone. This book has taken on the definitive coverage from Rockfax and, in a new development in British climbing, has pledged that all its profits will be donated to the bolt fund.

The funds provided by the new definitive book may well ultimately provide some much needed cash for the North Wales Bolt Fund but this is unlikely to happen for a year or two due to the initial publishing costs needing to be met first. To help bridge this gap we are pleased to announce that we will be making a donation of £1 per book from the first 1500 copies sold to the fund, and that we will be making this donation monthly after publication, based on the previous month’s sales.

July 3 addition - After the first 1500 copies have sold, Rockfax will donate £1 for each online sale of the book from this web site. This is in addition to the point-of-sale donations availability for people buying the book direct.

 



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North Wales Climbs – This Autumn

We are really pleased to announce a new Rockfax guidebook. North Wales Climbs is being written by Jack Geldard, Mark Reeves and Mark Glaister and is due for publication this Autumn.

It is being modelled on the very popular West Country Climbs with the intention being to cover all the major crags in the area from the Ormes, through the mountains and on to Gogarth. You can read more detail about what the book covers on the book page here.

Progress has been amazing over the last couple of months with the team able to take advantage of some surprisingly good weather windows. On a glorious Saturday a group of us got up early to trek up to the Cromlech in morning light and capture the cover photograph of Alexandra Schweikart on Left Wall.

Jack Geldard on the cover photo shoot.

Your Feedback

Since there are so many of us with warm memories about climbing in North Wales, it is a great time to give your feedback on grades, stars and general route comments. The book page here has links to most of the crags being included in the guide so, let us know what you think before the book goes to press.

The example spread of Craig yr Ogof from North Wales Climbs.

The example spread of the walls of the Cromlech from North Wales Climbs.

The Ormes of Llandudno are also being covered.

 

 



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France : Ariège – New Crag Update

We have just published a small update for the France : Ariège guidebook which covers an extra crag for the Ax Les Thermes area.

Download it here

Ax les Thermes – Piscine – More Routes
To the right of the routes in the guidebook (p263) is a small selection of routes. The ones on the far right are a useful addition to easy routes in the area. As intimated at in the guidebook, there has been some confusion about the names of the routes here, though some are painted on the rock.



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Major New Guidebook in Development

In a radical departure for Rockfax, we have decided to tackle a major new book to the wonderful climbing found in the remote Republic of Altai. The Altai mountains straddle the four borders of Russia, Mongolia, China and Kazakhstan. Despite some modest interest in recent years by Alpinists on the larger peaks, it is remarkable that trad climbing in the area has seen little development … until now!

Map: By PANONIAN (Own work) [CC0], via Wikimedia Commons

Altai Rock

From the lowland roadside crags in the Kuraysky range to the soaring multi-pitch mountain routes of the North Chuyskie Belki, there is a lifetime of adventure to be found in the Altai. All of the major ranges and regions will be covered, including the recent bolted faces in the Saylyughem near the Mongolian border. The crags around Irbistu in the South Chuyskie Belki probably contain the highest concentration of climbing in Russia, challenging yet memorable days out are guaranteed.

Free Download Sample

As a taster we have produced a MiniGuide to one of the great crags in the area which is free to download. The Central Earth crag – so called because it is about as far from the coast as possible on Earth – has been developed with three great lines up its striking corners.

Get the sample topo now

Clay Conlon nears the top of the majestic Karohshi Corner – a classic Severe on Central Earth crag in the South Chuyski Range.



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