Brooks' Layback

2 Stars
 HS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< The Chimney < Thrall's Thrutch  |  Wobblestone Crack > Red Shift >>

The short right-angled corner-crack starts from a ledge and many find it is just too thin for good jams.
FA. Rupert Brooks 1932


Stiff for the grade, and a warning should be given
Jon Croxford - 19/Dec/01

Not remotely stiff for the grade. How can this still be VS but Mutiny Crack was downgraded to HS? Nay, this should be HS. Compare with Amazon (which I think is harder).
David Jones - 21/Jan/02

Much easier than Mutiny or Amazon Crack.
Graham - 04/Feb/02

This is definitely easier if jammed
Matt - 22/Feb/02

Standard HS corner crack.
Steve C - 18/May/02

Excellent route but only just VS. Mutiny Crack is harder and protection is the same. Can't see how it can be jammed: gap too small for my hands... simple layback. Start is dead easy.
Martin Brice - 09/Sep/02

A good standard at VS, If you can place gear whilst laybacking easy , if not it gets exciting towards the top!
Wayne - 18/Jan/03

thought this fairly easy for vs. just shove in a piece of gear at the rest as high up as possible and 30 seconds of laybacking later you're on the top.
rich - 02/Jun/03

The route description is a bit misleading: the jams may not be perfect but it's still much easier to jam it than layback it, even if you have big hands!
Gareth Rees - 04/Sep/03

very simple and whole thing can be over in an instant.probably only vs cos if one piece of gear then sprint for the top could leave a fall close to the ground from the top. but still top easy for that
james turnbull - 14/Apr/04

...sorry, TOO easy for that
james turnbull - 14/Apr/04

Ignoring comments about grading for a minute - this route is fantastic..pop in some gear layback and mantle onto the shelf, pop in another bit of gear, jam and mantle to the top. hey presto....and only one sling required for the belay..joyous!!

2 stars for the complete experience...wait till late afternoon / early evening for best conditions
rob k - 17/May/04

err, jam and Layback to top...
rob k - 17/May/04

Its a lovely pure crack line. However, anyone who thinks this is VS is deluding themselves ! Its very short, totally protectable and not overly technical. Jam it if its damp.
GrahamD - 25/Oct/04

don't care about grade really, class climbing. i think the initial transfer into the ayback positin mught intimidate some hs leaders. hard in comparison top mutiny crack but....
DannyC - 07/Jun/05

My hands aren't small, yet the jams were perfect until the last bit where a layback became necessary. Lovely route!
Tim W - 21/Jun/06

I've wanted to lead this route since top roping it in 2002, and today was the day.! Found it pretty
hard work (had to rest on a hastily slung friend near the top,) but didn't pull on anything and finally made it up. Mostly laybacked, (which is my favourite sort of climbing). Boy, am I chuffed!Great route. Lin M
lin marsh - 21/Sep/06

I tried to jam my way up, but as I tried to place a cam my foot slipped out the crack (it's thin) and took a short fall. Hard for HS, nothing for the feet. The finish is too thin for jams.
mark20 - 26/Apr/08

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 109
    hard VS 0 of 10
    VS 0 of 10
    easy VS 2 of 10
    hard HS 5 of 10
    HS 3 of 10
    easy HS 0 of 10
    hard0 of 10
    0 of 10
    easy0 of 10
    hard 4c 0 of 50
    4c 0 of 50
    easy 4c 0 of 50
    hard 4b 0 of 50
    4b 0 of 50
    easy 4b 0 of 50
    hard 4a 0 of 50
    4a 0 of 50
    easy 4a 0 of 50
    hard 3c 0 of 50
    3c 0 of 50
    easy 3c 0 of 50
    hard 3b 0 of 50
    3b 0 of 50
    easy 3b 0 of 50
    hard 3a 0 of 50
    3a 0 of 50
    easy 3a 0 of 50
    hard 2c 0 of 50
    2c 0 of 50
    easy 2c 0 of 50
    hard 2b 0 of 50
    2b 0 of 50
    easy 2b 0 of 50
    hard 2a 0 of 50
    2a 0 of 50
    easy 2a 0 of 50
    hard ?? 0 of 50
    ?? 0 of 50
    easy ?? 1 of 50
    hard ?? 1 of 50
    ?? 46 of 50
    easy ?? 2 of 50
    3 Stars 5 of 49
    2 Stars 26 of 49
    1 Star 18 of 49
    0 Stars 0 of 49
    Bag of ..... 0 of 49

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.