Moss Gill Top 50

3 Stars
 S-V 6

Adjacent Routes
<< B Gully < Hole and Corner Gully  |  Right Branch > Twisting Gill >>

Follow the summer line. From the amphitheatre a number of finishes are possible.1) Collie Exit. Climb directly up slabs on the left for 12m then traverse L to a short chimney III. 2) Barton's Exit, as for the Collie Exit for 12m, then continue up the steep slabby corner above the overlap. Moss Gill can be climbed under a wide range of conditions.


Moss Gill is not this grade with the Collie exit ,more IV,5.
Bob Bennett - 19/Mar/04

It's comparable in difficulty to Scabbard Chimnay, Savage Slit and other such routes in Scotland. Climber under 'normal' conditions of verglas and powder (as the Cold Climbs account makes clear, powder and verglas have always been the most common conditions) it is certainly 6 technically.
Dave Hunter - 23/Mar/04

Barton's exit is V6, Collie exit is not [? IV5].
Martin Hair - 06/Jul/04

Did Moss Ghyll on 18.3.06 in good condition. To my mind the pitches were:

1. Slabs to right of guly bed IV 5, although there could have been a slightly easier line than we took.
2. Tennis court wall and traverse V 6. People could suggest IV 6 because the crux is short, but the gear is poor. A fall from Tennis court wall would put you back in the gully bed, a fall from the traverse would be nasty if the rock 1 held, horrible if it didn't.
3. The collie step. IV 5 in the conditions we climbed it, although it could easily be IV 6 with less ice. (We had a front point depth sheet of ice covering the step its self.)
4. Slabs exit IV 4.

I think the route is V 6 overall. There is a short crux of 6 that is bold, IV 6 as a grade would suggest overhead gear (e.g. The Message) which Moss Ghyll is more serious than. I also think as a route as a whole it is more dificult than classic grade V gullys like Point Five, Zero, Vanishing e.t.c.
Exile - 20/Mar/06

climbed moss gill on 16/3/06 and agree with much of above and would put it at V 6 , but being a mixed climb it's always hard to compare with pure snow ice climbs, i've happily soloed Zero but would never solo Moss Gill!!! Also we did Choc gully the next day and I reckon thats a good IV 5 !!! ??
Al Horsfield - 31/Mar/06

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 13
    hard S-VI 0 of 5
    S-VI 0 of 5
    easy S-VI 0 of 5
    hard S-V 0 of 5
    S-V 3 of 5
    easy S-V 2 of 5
    hard S-IV 0 of 5
    S-IV 0 of 5
    easy S-IV 0 of 5
    hard ?? 0 of 5
    ?? 3 of 5
    easy ?? 0 of 5
    hard ?? 2 of 5
    ?? 0 of 5
    easy ?? 0 of 5
    3 Stars 3 of 3
    2 Stars 0 of 3
    1 Star 0 of 3
    0 Stars 0 of 3
    Bag of ..... 0 of 3

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