Central Buttress

3 Stars
 HVD 3c

Adjacent Routes
<< Green Crack < Black Crack  |  Central Buttress Direct > Central Buttress Chimney >>

A classic outing up the tallest buttress on the cliff and a good spot to practice multi-pitch climbing. Start left of the buttress, on a block amongst grassy ledges. Traverse right along the break to the front face and climb polished holds to the notch by the pinnacle (a quick ascent is the norm) and a stance on a big boulder. A more direct version up the flake-crack is an option as is a green stomach-traverse from the base of Central Chimney. Continue up the centre of the slab to steeper ground then traverse left at one of two levels to a short jamming crack - the final section of Black Crack.
FA. Morley Wood 1923


The initial tree belay is no longer there, probably the victim of a late night drinking session. The initial break only has good jams if you've got Craggs-sized mutant hands (the crux of the route was avoiding the broken glass in the crack here). Couldn't find any thread belays by the pinnacle (were these chockstones? if so they're no longer there).
Simon Caldwell - 24/Aug/09

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