Stonnis Crack

2 Stars
 HS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Ladykiller Peak < Fireworks for the Blind  |  Discombobulator > Caught Smiling >>

This fine crack was left out of the earliest guides as it was thought to be unjustifiably dangerous! Now it gives pleasant climbing to an awkward and rapid exit left. Much harder if you can't jam, but then it would be wouldn't it?
FA. J.W.Puttrell 1900


Seems farier at HS 4b than S 4a, a tricky route considering it's such a short crack.
Woker - 09/Sep/03

Agreed, fairer at it's new grade. The jamming is good but strenous and the exit is not the easing one might hope for. A bit of a route to nowhere, but GG Putrell anyway =).
Fiend - 12/Feb/04

Single comment - This route is almost easier in regular trainers...
Pythonist - 04/May/04

This was an early lead for me based on the grade in the old BMC guide. I was too pumped to complete the final leftward exit so then had to downclimb and clean the route. Arms looked like popeye at the end. Next time I'll try it in fatter boots !
dangerousoldfool - 09/Jun/05

If you look around a bit you can climb this without using the crack for footholds (except at the sloping foothold about 7 ft from the top). This makes the exit from the crack a bit easier. If you don't like jamming you can lay back a lot of the crack until a single fist jam (right hand)is used high up to enable reaching the horizontal jugs at the ledge. A bit pumpy after the horizontal jugs are reached to bother putting in gear there, just make sure your last runner in the crack is high up and good and use the foothold out left facilitate getting on to the ledge.
Dave - 18/Jun/05

nice S 4a solo, did not think hs. you might just need to do more jamming.
nate mcmullan - 17/Jul/06

Went on this as a "Severe". Would have placed it at the hardest severe I have done. Lovely first crack though, irresistable jams, but followed by a greasy lichenous squirm to finish.
DuzWalker - 07/Mar/07

Having seconded High Neb and lead this, I am slowly making my way through the climbs in "Hard Grit" :) One of the best HS's I've done. Was expecting it to be much harder due to the "unjustifiable" label.
Richard Ackbar - 11/Jun/07

Bloody difficult. Without a doubt the hardest thing I've ever lead without falling off. I like jamming a lot, but the overhangingness and total lack of footholds for the leftwards traverse made the top section of the crack a horrific battle. I have no skin left.
colin angus - 16/Sep/07

Not as hard as it felt at the time :-)
A good finish is to go up the arete on the right of the top crack - quite bold (VS 4b?), and I backed off as I didn't know how good the finishing holds would be, but I should have persevered. This might be the finish of Sand Buttress?
Simon Caldwell - 24/Aug/09

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 97
    hard VS 0 of 32
    VS 0 of 32
    easy VS 9 of 32
    hard HS 5 of 32
    HS 12 of 32
    easy HS 0 of 32
    hard6 of 32
    0 of 32
    easy0 of 32
    hard 4c 0 of 33
    4c 0 of 33
    easy 4c 3 of 33
    hard 4b 10 of 33
    4b 13 of 33
    easy 4b 3 of 33
    hard 4a 4 of 33
    4a 0 of 33
    easy 4a 0 of 33
    3 Stars 6 of 32
    2 Stars 21 of 32
    1 Star 4 of 32
    0 Stars 0 of 32
    Bag of ..... 1 of 32

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.