The File Top 50

3 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
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Perhaps the Peak's pre-eminent jamming crack. A compelling crack in the south-facing wall gobbles cams and arguments about the grade continue. The initial roof is the crux, but interest is maintained to a superb, juggy finish.
FA. Don Whillans 1956


The definative VS jamming crack. Classic!
Mark Stevenson - 29/May/02

HVS?? 5a??? need to learn to jam. The all-time Grit VS crack, a thing of beauty and a joy for ever.
dc - 07/Nov/02

hell on rock! but ok i admit it i cant jam, one day i'll learn
ellie - 05/Feb/03

This is tough even if you can jam. worth giving a go as the gears good and it sure is classic!
mark s davies - 03/May/03

Difficulty is inversely porportional to hand size.
DaveP - 06/Aug/03

still got the cuts a week later,shouldnt be too hard when the pattern is sorted and your not already pumped.failed in both areas.still love it
james turnbull - 14/Apr/04

Lots of flying time. Once you've sorted the sequence it looks do-able. Up4it attitude required and lots of cams! Defo on the hard side of VS 4c!
Mat Galvin - 10/Jun/04

pattern/sequence?! It's an easy and standard jamming crack. The trick is to jam your feet as well as your hands. Very delightfull!
Ropeboy - 11/Jun/04

like all 3 star cracks it all feels over too soon, perfect jams throughout I imagine it will spit you out if you're incompetent.
Jon Greengrass - 25/Jul/04

Enjoyed this loads! Will be back again to improve my style of assent (ahem, clean it up)
cider nut - 08/Aug/05

The jams are so good you dont even have to look at the crack as you climb it. Perfect.
Actually I felt it more like VS 4b, didn't feel any distinctive crux and not really 4c if you can jam, but sustained and pumpy if you hang around (best sprinted I reckon).
SidH - 19/Aug/05

Surely HS 4b for anyone with normal hands - every move is a rest!

Truly an excellent route though.
Fiend - 31/Mar/06

to a real good jammer it feels like hs 4b, but to anyone who's merely OK at jamming, it'll feel as hard as most e1s, and to anyone who's truly rubbish at jamming they'll fall off and leave their skin behind (well, the skin on the back of their hands anyway). so how hard is it? vs 4c of course, you can tell that much just by looking at it.
Jon Stewart - 09/Jul/06

could do with being ten times longer. nuff said
dave saxby - 23/Apr/07

i'd give it hvs 4c cos it's steep and sustained. i led it onsight and am an average jammer (i've been to indian creek!). it may be hs or vs for good jammers, who love to tell people how easy they find it, but how many british climbers fit this discription? not many in my experience.
clams - 17/Aug/10

It's... ahhh... Whillans'... route...
Dave Foster - 06/Sep/10

I can't jam so found this quite pumpy - I was pleased that a couple of my jams actually worked - didn't have enough of the right sized cams and didn't tape up as well as I could - took a couple of falls but actually got up it in reasonable style - I can see why it's so highly rated - I'll be back to do it properly - if you can jam I'm sure it's easy, but I've done easier E1's
Mark Reed - 19/Apr/15

An absolute breeze this time, I was a bit nervy at the start, but once I calmed down and started actually using my jams it was fine. A little pumped at the top but I think that was due to me being over psyched - was fully expecting to fall off again as I can't jam.
Mark Reed - 21/Apr/16

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 292
    hard HVS 0 of 99
    HVS 0 of 99
    easy HVS 14 of 99
    hard VS 31 of 99
    VS 47 of 99
    easy VS 4 of 99
    hard HS 3 of 99
    HS 0 of 99
    easy HS 0 of 99
    hard 5a 0 of 99
    5a 0 of 99
    easy 5a 0 of 99
    hard 4c 0 of 99
    4c 0 of 99
    easy 4c 0 of 99
    hard 4b 0 of 99
    4b 0 of 99
    easy 4b 0 of 99
    hard 4a 0 of 99
    4a 0 of 99
    easy 4a 0 of 99
    hard 3c 0 of 99
    3c 0 of 99
    easy 3c 0 of 99
    hard 3b 0 of 99
    3b 0 of 99
    easy 3b 0 of 99
    hard 3a 0 of 99
    3a 0 of 99
    easy 3a 0 of 99
    hard 2c 0 of 99
    2c 0 of 99
    easy 2c 0 of 99
    hard 2b 0 of 99
    2b 0 of 99
    easy 2b 0 of 99
    hard 2a 0 of 99
    2a 0 of 99
    easy 2a 0 of 99
    hard ?? 0 of 99
    ?? 0 of 99
    easy ?? 13 of 99
    hard ?? 28 of 99
    ?? 48 of 99
    easy ?? 5 of 99
    hard ?? 5 of 99
    ?? 0 of 99
    easy ?? 0 of 99
    3 Stars 91 of 94
    2 Stars 2 of 94
    1 Star 1 of 94
    0 Stars 0 of 94
    Bag of ..... 0 of 94

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