1 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Bifurous Chimney < The Bigot Direct  |  Gruesome Groove > Scorpion >>

Climb the face of the tower, and the short crack to the overhang. Step left to pass this, then move back right to finish up the well-positioned face above. Do it before the ivy wins.
FA. Chris Jackson, Rod Haslam 1978


This routes down as a HVS 5a in the guide. Not that hard but bottled it just because of the exposure!
Mike Todd - 09/Sep/04

Really nice - worth a couple of stars and a pleasant relief from the polish of the more popular routes.
Paul Evans - 11/Aug/07

Nice route. Think one star is right at the moment, as the 'step left' sends you onto ivy covered rock, but it's got some great moves and a great position (and view), and the moves on the upper face still take it out of you!
cider nut - 14/May/08

Passing the overhang on the left now gives an unpleasant struggle up an ivy choked crack for a couple of moves. Probably better to avoid this and go straight up the face which is much cleaner (no change in grade).
roger whetton - 13/Apr/11

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