1 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Solitaire < Conclusor  |  Medusa > Hades >>

1) 5a, 12m. Make a hard (5b?) first move to gain a left-slanting crack/ramp-line then continue to a grassy landing onto a stance under a bulge.
Original Start, VS 4c - Start up Conclusor then traverse diagonally right to the stance. Very scruffy now, but it avoids that first move.
2) 4c, 30m. Climb the groove above to a bulge. Pass this and climb the continuation groove, making good use of its right wall, to join and finish up the final section of Medusa.
FA. Dave Johnson, Dave Mellor 1960


The direct start (hard 5a) is far better, up the obvious flake. Despite the grass the route is actually pretty good, and worth doing.
bomb - 17/May/05

We only did the direct start - so can't really compare - but have to disagree with the above comment. The 5a start that we did was hard, polished, loose and vegetated. Hated it. Now i think of it though, there was another flake directly below the belay point - maybe that was the direct start?
On a separate, altho partially related note, for anyone with hayfever - this route/area in mid-June gave me and my mate the most horrendous allergic reaction. Think atrocious sneezing, puffed eyes and worst of all - red swollen itchy bumps all over our arms, shoulders and back of the neck.
DrGav - 19/Jun/05

Second the above comment. Horrific allergic reactions to something in the area, the direct start of the first pitch was very tricky (more in the region of 5a) and vegetation everywhere. A pity as the second pitch seemed like a lot of fun.
David Martin - 20/Jun/05

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.