Purple Haze

2 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Bullets < Mephistopheles  |  Ploy > Frore >>

A fine climb with a good open finish, high on the wall. Start by the thorn tree under a left-facing flake, leading to an overhang.
1) 5b, 22m. A thin flake, overhang and groove above lead awkwardly to easier grooves and the terrace.
2) 5a, 24m. Follow the wide flake-crack from the terrace, then the fine steep wall and corner to finish.
FA. Bob Dearman, D.Riley (2pts) 1970


The route is harder (and better!) than Via Vita with pitch 1 being solid E1.
roger whetton - 20/Sep/03

Not E1 by any means- 5B , yes, but protection can be placed next to the move.Slightly rattly little undercut on the move ,but-HVS 5B
Bob Bennett - 23/Apr/04

These things are all subjective but if this isn't E1 I reckon that there aren't many natural limestone E1's in Derbyshire!
roger whetton - 22/Jun/04

I would say HVS climbing but maybe E1 protection on the crux. Is also possible to do in one big pitch all the way to the top. Rope drag wasn't an issue as it went pretty much straight up.
Mark Grist - 18/Apr/05

Excellant route. Bottom end E1 but definately 5b - quite sustained and although the gear is good throughout it gets tiring to place. Basically, I want an E point for the effort!!
Chris the Tall - 01/Aug/05

Felt like E1 to me - I had one of those "I wouldn't have liked to lead this" moments on the second!
drcorbasisgod - 07/Oct/05

E1. Definitely.
Paul Evans - 11/Aug/07

Very representative of the typical "quality" of mid-grade Peak limestone. Although the top wall is almost pleasant.
Fiend - 12/Aug/07

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