<< Bertram's Chimney < Gary Gobstopper | Lord of the Dance > Perforation >>
The long rising-diagonal, and highest of the three girdles, is one of the major lines on the cliff and offers a superb outing with some astounding positions at the grade. Harder for the tall and potentially a bit of a gripper to second.
1) 4b, 35m. Start by the tree on the path, 10m right of a small cave and follow the cleaned path of West Wall Climb for two pitches to the sheltered stance at the start of the break.
2) 5a, 22m. Traverse down and right across the wall following the line of good holds (don't forget the second man) to reach the groove of The Thorn then climb this to the holly tree belay.
3) 5a, 26m. Climb back down rightwards again and get past the horrible spiky bush then cross the fingery wall to regain the break. Follow this (threads) in a wild position, to a grassy rake (thread belays up and left) and an easy escape to the ridge.
FA. G.Smith, T.Burnell 1966
This is pretty tough for the grade and easy to get slightly off route making it significantly harder. Good fun and worth doing though.
Mark Grist - 05/Aug/07
Login to your ROCKFAX account
to add your comments - Search for comments