Southern Rib

2 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Bill Baley < Tennessee Waltz  |  The Temptress > Left-hand Route >>

Popular and excellent, though inevitably a little polished.
1) 5b, 18m. Bold moves reach the crack, then power up it until it fizzles out then take the flake to its end and swing left to the stance on Tennessee Waltz.
2) 5a, 30m. Climb the narrowing slab to a small overhang, pass the left-hand end of this then move right then back left to a groove which leads to a worry exit onto the meadows above.
FFA. Rod Leeming 1965. FA. Joe Brown (2pts) 1950s


It may have been along time ago (1987) but I felt that pitch 1 was 5b and pitch 2 5a.
roger whetton - 07/Oct/03

I agree with that
Neil Binns - 24/Oct/03

A chunk fell off the flake on pitch 1 a few (?5) years ago. When I climbed it last year I found it hard for HVS, but easier than Left-Hand Route (solid E1 to the right). Interesting that some people thought it 5b *before* the flake fell off!
Joe Lenham - 04/Jun/04

A route of considerable substance. Not really polished but a lot of tricky bits including the start, middle, and finish. Only the last few yards of vertical grass reduce it's classic status.
Fiend - 09/Aug/04

Agree first pitch 5b with worrying section between crack and flake
Simon Duncan - 05/Sep/04

Magnificant route, fabulous climbing all the way on both pitches. Great moves and sustained but with good protection. Hard won for the grade.
Simon Shaw - 13/Aug/07

Top pitch is probably 5b for the tall :)
Well maybe not, but you do get very bunched up
Great route in a great position
chris_moor - 13/Aug/07

Super route. The grassy top out, with required steadiness only adds to the experience. Psychologically, P2 is harder than many E1s in North Wales.
Goi Ashmore - 23/Jun/08

Hardest HVS I've done in yonks, wasn't quite prepared for what to expect. Both pitches felt more like solid E1 5b,5b, sustained to boot with plenty of moments to savour. Stern stuff.
Owen Wynne-Griffith - 29/Sep/09

Classic Peak Limestone HVS 5b (both pitches)
mark20 - 05/Jul/11

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