A Secret State

1 Stars
 E3 5c

Adjacent Routes
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Start below the left-hand of two crack-systems and climb the wall leftwards (old threads) to a groove, which leads to the break. Press on up the final wall then exit rightwards.
FA. Gary Gibson, Hazel Carnes 1983


Superb climbing up to about two thirds height - would be worth 3 stars if whole route like that. Upper wall including crux is on poorer rock - but not too bad. Gear ok. Final wall above ledge is escapable but there is a good final move to finish on the right edge of the higest point. Threads are there but looking very aged - they are not grip clips though and can be backed up (especially the one by the big pocket which has a bomber rock 4 / 5 next to it). Given E2 5b in old BMC guide. Maybe easy E3.
Steve B - 01/Oct/08

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