A Game of Chess

2 Stars
 E5 6b

Adjacent Routes
<< Phaseout < Tout Comprendre  |  Hammer into Anvil > Nice 'n' Sleazy >>

A well-named slab route, which is desperate to figure out, and almost as hard to climb. Follow the hairline weakness in the left-hand side of the slab to the central bulge, and pass this phlegmatically. The grade is for side-runners, although it was originally climbed without and given E2! High in the grade.
FA. Johnny Woodward, Andrew Woodward 1976


My first E5. I headpointed this on Wednesday and thought it was an awesome line. It'd definitely be tricky to onsight, even for someone who is solid at E5 as it's not easy to read. A monster reach would definitely make the first crux move easier but might make the ones after feel harder.

I lead it without side-runners (the book says they're in at the grade) and placed the gear on the lead - you definitely wouldn't want to fall off the crux! A side runner would probably stop you from decking which makes me wonder whether the grade would change without side runners - anyone else done it and have any ideas?
Andrew Barker - 22/Sep/06

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.