Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 30
The right-hand crack is straightforward and solid, apart from the exit. It gets a star for being the best HS in the quarry, either that or the route name - you choose.
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Terrible name and average climb.
Why is the short right arete called Beau Jest (HVS 5a) not on the site? It's in the book and deserves 1 star for being a good if escapable route.
Andrew, Its called that to take the piss (in a friedly way) out of Johnny who did those two easy routes and went on to put up Beau Geste, one of the best and hardest routes on grit at the time. Hence Beau Jest.
Sorry that should have said 1976, thats what it says in the guide, I wonder where on earth they got that info from, a bad guess I think.
Well done Al. I climbed Beau Jest yesterday. It felt desperate for HVS 5a, more like E2 5c to those of us who climbed it, and then only if the hollow block holds. Unless that is you're climbing it with your left hand and gear in Bimbo? Yes it is escapable but only by a nasty jump onto pointy rocks. Hummm.
Edward, we also tackled the neighbouring route 'Beau Jest' yesterday so we must have seen you, were you the guy with the family group? We agree with your comment on the grade, and were completely unaware that the right hand block was hollow, so hollow in fact that my leader 'Dave' had a real wobbler on it as the block came away. Luckily we both escaped and have fully removed the block, it must be about a quarter of a tonne. rockfax needn't add the route to the website now as it's not what it was.
Becheezus Graham that sounds terrifying. I've got a little pit in the bottyom of my stomach, one of those 'there but for the grace of God go I' feelings. How did your mate get out of that without being hurt? Anyhow, I'll be interested t
...o know what the next ascentionist of the arete makes of its grade now it will have no (illusory) protection in its upper reaches (probably still HVS if Al has anything to do with it ;-)). Still I guess it could possibly be easier without the block in your way. BTW I wasn't with the family group... I was the guy who upset the cows on the way over the field!