Captain Reliable

2 Stars
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Joint Effort < Badlands  |  Private Gripped > Extra Effort >>

Climb the pleasant crack to the bulges and lace it with gear. Then pull up and right to find tricky-to-place runners and one more balancy move to reach easy ground.
FA. Phil Burke, Gary Cooper 1978


One well protected tricky move followed by an easier but bolder couple of moves lead to an exciting mantel onto a grassy ledge before the top is reached. Quite good route.
John Camateras - 11/Jun/04

A full grade easier than Cathy's Clown, with a bivvy ledge to go for post-crux. E2 5b, if that.
jhenryb - 04/Jul/05

A quality route. Nice steady crack leads you up to the meat of the route. Hardest part was placing gear just over roof before doing a relatively easy move, but I'm glad I did as moves after this were tricky and no gear for quite a way.
Sishaw - 22/Aug/05

Great route. Didn't think this was particularly reachy and I'm 5'8''. Managed to get gear in after the crux so didn't find it bold
Neil Binns - 05/Sep/05

I didn't bother with the hard-to-place runner as the ones underneath were good and you can get at least one half-decent nut once you're through the crux. The top section is still a little tricky. I reckon it's soft E2 but the crux is 5c.
Andrew Barker - 08/Jul/06

Not reachy at all and that's from a 5'4''1/2 person. Maybe tall people just don't get their feet up?
ruth taylor - 12/Jul/10

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.