Great Buttress Top 50

3 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Mock Turtle < Great Buttress Eliminate  |  Sforzando > Central Climb >>

A moorland classic; worth the hike up. High in the grade. Start in a green corner below the roof and trend left past the arete. Climb straight up the steep wall then trend strenuously rightwards through the bulges, keeping just above the lip of the overhang, to a tricky pull to ledges (possible stance). From here finish up and left via a final delicate slab or sneak off up Central Climb.
FA. Ted Howard and friends 1957


A superb route. If you don't like unprotected slabs, miss out the top couple of metres for an HVS 5a/5b tick. An easy escape out left is possible.
Nick Smith - 18/Apr/03

Definately one of the all time best routes in the peak but only E0 5a at most!
mark s davies - 14/Jun/03

Magnificant...jugs, good gear but very steep all the way to tricky pull over onto the ledge. There's no point in adding the top very short slab to the route...disconnected and totally out of character...steep HVS 5a does it.
Colin - 14/Jul/03

did this on wednesday, my first e1(definitely claiming it!). found the final slab the most difficult part although the overhang's v pumpy,without it the route would be hvs i think but the slab's unprotected and just tricky really, just making it low e1 for me(or indeed e0!). it doesnt seem particularly logical to the line though and is different to all of my old guides which show the route, then a hvs, escaping off to the right. anyway, fantastic, wonderful route and highly recommended.
DannyC - 10/Sep/05

Wonderful steep juggy climbing, there are even ways to rest at every move. Loads of bumper gear, hugely enjoyable.
DuzWalker - 14/Jun/07

Great, great route - A wonderfully relentless pump, and I was mighty glad that I was seconding. A bit like Pembroke in that if you are fit and strong it's easy, but if off the couch then watch your arms pulp...
Tyrone Shullace - 05/Oct/11

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.

  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 28
    hard E1 0 of 2
    E1 0 of 2
    easy E1 0 of 2
    hard HVS 1 of 2
    HVS 1 of 2
    easy HVS 0 of 2
    hard VS 0 of 2
    VS 0 of 2
    easy VS 0 of 2
    hard 5b 0 of 2
    5b 0 of 2
    easy 5b 0 of 2
    hard 5a 1 of 2
    5a 1 of 2
    easy 5a 0 of 2
    hard 4c 0 of 2
    4c 0 of 2
    easy 4c 0 of 2
    3 Stars 23 of 24
    2 Stars 1 of 24
    1 Star 0 of 24
    0 Stars 0 of 24
    Bag of ..... 0 of 24

    Please Login to your Rockfax account to rate this climb.