Espolón Limaban Top 50

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Green Route II < Bernardo  |  Dedi - UBSA > Red Route II >>

A fine and popular route up the impressive flake crack high on the face. It is the original route of the crag, put up in June 1977. The first pitch is a pleasant intro, but the flake on the second one is where it's at.
1) 4, 32m. Climb the wall just right of the groove with deviations to the left as and when needed. Belay by a tree.
2) 5, 30m. Climb cracks, then a short tricky wall to the layback flake. Go up this - easy but spooky - then continue to higher ledges and a choice of belays. Descend by abseil.


Second pitch felt really hard compared to other 5s on the crag. Gear a bit old now.
With trad gear one can continue up and left to the crest and follow the upper part of Amarillo. That's how it is described in my Spanish guide book.
Steff - 10/Jan/05

Brilliant route :)
Nick Smith - 28/Nov/06

Three star route, but bolts on the second pitch are becoming rusty
Ian Tapley - 03/Dec/06

Second pitch put a big grin on my face when I got to the big ledge at the top, as it somehow feels much harder than it is. Well worth doing.
Nick Schierloh - 25/Oct/07

Fantastic must do route
Chris Wilson - 01/Feb/09

great route with a fantastic final pitch.
jon - 04/Apr/10

A 3* route. The top pitch is a stunner.
Alan Cameron - 02/Oct/10

Upper pitch is a stunning pitch and bang on the grade as well I'd say.
Michael Davies - 26/Apr/11

Excellent route, nice steady climbing on pitch one, but pitch 2 is really satisfying and a bit more demanding.
Dave Hume - 21/Oct/13

Beautiful climb!
The second pitch looks and feels bolder than it actually is because you always have good hand and foot holds.
gringo1804 - 10/Apr/15

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