Cilber

2 Stars
Loose
 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Black Route II < Chabito  |  Ruwa > Oma Sus >>


Despite some grotty terrain, this is a worthwhile route, and well equipped where it matters. Start right of a groove and rib.
1) 5, 28m. Climb a rib, trending slightly rightwards to the first bolt, then up the buttress, passing a small roof to a good stance.
2) 5+, 15m. Continue up the slanting crack splitting the wall (4 bolts) then head leftwards past the Arete to a stance.
3) 4, 25m. Straight up slabby rock, passing ledges to a bay.
4) 3, 25m. A scrappy pitch. Climb to a ledge at 5m, then trend left (red arrows) to a stance below a groove.
5) 4+, 40m. Up the steep corner/groove (bolts) and then continue more easily to a finish up the right Arete.
Descent - Traverse 40m east (red arrows) to the notch. Scramble down 30m a tree on Lofi - abseil down this.
FA. Hannelore and Kurt Krentzenbeck 2000s Equipped by Horst Urban.

USER COMMENTS

There is another pitch-
5 50m 4+ Climb the steep corner/groove (bolts) and then more easily to the ridge.
Descent- There are red arrows along the ridge. From the col we abbed 30m from a ring bolt down easy ground to a tree and bolts at the top of Lofi. From there ab 50m and 15m. ( this was in March 03).
Chris Heald - 03/Mar/04

The traverse to the top of Ruwa seemed impossible and very exposed. Couldn't find a lower off. From the groove we did a 55m ab to the second belay and then a 50m ab to the ground.
Gary Watson - 05/Nov/04

Misnamed, now has "Cilber" written at the base in Red along with number and lengths of pitches. Route finding on route is facilitated by the same tin of red paint.
Duncan Martin - 06/Feb/05

We made two navigation errors while doing Cilber and the ridge traverse (undoubtedly overestimating the size of everything due to living in Grenoble and being used to Alpine routes...): the "scramble down to the right" really is only ~5 m long, we mistook the summit for the "pinnacle"... so we ended up traversing under the summit (lots of traces), downclimbing a couloir, then climbing up the rightwards slanting dieder/ramp (4?) with no gear in place up to a small roof, which we avoided to the right (5? 1 piton, some wooden wedges...) then up the chimney (4?) to finish a couple of metres right of the summit. It seemed to me to be remnants of a direct to the summit, any info? Good fun in any case! Second, we traversed way too far on the descent (the ridge from the summit to the TV towers takes 10 minutes max) looking for a trail, and ended up bush bashing on the steep side slopes to get back... at least with a pretty backdrop!
mlanger - 23/Mar/17

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