3 Stars
 HVS 5a

Adjacent Routes
<< Perplexity < Apoplexy  |  Remembrance Day > Day Dream >>

A class act with a big feel. The fine steep crack in the centre of the wall leads through a series of bulges to a ledge out on the right. Balance back left above the roof and sprint for the top.
FA. Joe Brown 1957


An excellent route but is hard for hvs - make sure you put a good runner in the crack before moving back left for the crux because you will probably find you haven't got the energy to hang onto the sandy holds to place any more gear until you get to the top!
hans - 06/Sep/04

Thought this was a very average route and definitely not worth 3 stars! Good gear though, awkward climbing and some dubious rock. Nowhere near as good as Great North Road.
Dave - 29/Jun/05

Its 5b in On Peak Rock, which is probably fair for the crux move back left to continue on the crack following the overhang. The climb is good up to that point, but the move left (in my view) pushes the route into the three star category. A beautiful HVS solution to an otherwise very difficult move over the overhang. Great North Road is also excellent, and more consistent. But it doesn't have any moves as startling as the one required to overcome the crux of Plexity. Loved it!
Munir Hassan - 30/Aug/05

Great route and HVS 5a*** is spot on. There is a hand jam in the top crack which when established should be enough to allow you to place gear (the lips are often sandy). Those with short arms will need to crimp at 5b+ at the move back left but I could reach.
Offwidth - 25/Jul/06

What a terrible route! One of the most disappointing routes I've done at Millstone. Never, ever worth 3 stars. Dexterity, Bond st etc are in a different league.
Tom - 27/Jul/06

Are you sure you did the right route Tom? This is a stunning line, only downside was the bird sh*t but you can scoot around that no problems.
Paul Phillips - 12/Aug/06

Tip top route. Sure, Great North Road are excellent routes, but routes like this should not be over looked. It has a classic aspect about it with the climber having to negociate overhangs and bird do do. All adds to the atmosphere.
Jon Dittman - 18/Sep/06

A great route, proven by the fact that it is compared with Great North Road. I thought the initial overhang was a difficult as the pull left near the top. The protection is bombproof all the way up. Jim
Jim Paxman - 26/Jul/08

Absolute corker. The top section is super exposed and very exciting if you run it out. Three stars and compares to any of the other classic HVSs at Millstone.
Dave Foster - 17/Nov/08

There is a bird nesting there at the moment 25/5/09 best stay away until it's gone
Geoffrey Odds - 25/May/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 101
    hard E1 0 of 34
    E1 0 of 34
    easy E1 0 of 34
    hard HVS 10 of 34
    HVS 22 of 34
    easy HVS 2 of 34
    hard VS 0 of 34
    VS 0 of 34
    easy VS 0 of 34
    hard 5b 0 of 34
    5b 0 of 34
    easy 5b 0 of 34
    hard 5a 0 of 34
    5a 0 of 34
    easy 5a 0 of 34
    hard 4c 0 of 34
    4c 0 of 34
    easy 4c 0 of 34
    hard 4b 0 of 34
    4b 0 of 34
    easy 4b 0 of 34
    hard 4a 0 of 34
    4a 0 of 34
    easy 4a 0 of 34
    hard 3c 0 of 34
    3c 0 of 34
    easy 3c 0 of 34
    hard 3b 0 of 34
    3b 0 of 34
    easy 3b 0 of 34
    hard 3a 0 of 34
    3a 0 of 34
    easy 3a 0 of 34
    hard 2c 0 of 34
    2c 0 of 34
    easy 2c 0 of 34
    hard 2b 0 of 34
    2b 0 of 34
    easy 2b 0 of 34
    hard 2a 0 of 34
    2a 0 of 34
    easy 2a 0 of 34
    hard ?? 0 of 34
    ?? 0 of 34
    easy ?? 2 of 34
    hard ?? 3 of 34
    ?? 29 of 34
    easy ?? 0 of 34
    3 Stars 26 of 33
    2 Stars 5 of 33
    1 Star 0 of 33
    0 Stars 1 of 33
    Bag of ..... 1 of 33

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