Capicúa Top 50

2 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Puente a&eacute;reo < Manolito  |  Matarlie > Chicho >>

Start on the far right-hand side of the main face at a scratched cross. A decent route, though the gear is rather spaced.
1) 4+, 20m. Climb the easy white slab, then an imposing brown streak, up the right-hand side of the open bay to a stance on the ridge.
2) 4, 25m. Trend leftwards back up the left-hand side of the rib to eventually join the ramp that runs across the upper part of the main face. A right-hand version is much easier (2+) but only has one solitary bolt in a 25m pitch.


Pitch 1 is superb and more like 4+. The brown streak is harder than it looks from the ground, but easier than it looks when you're just below it! Pitch 2 is easy 4 by the left hand version, and not as good as P1. I've failed to find the right hand variation on 2 visits, are there any bolts?
Simon Caldwell - 04/Mar/04

Only did the first pitch, but enjoyed that a lot. Would agree that it feels more like the 4+ awarded to the whole route.
TRNovice - 09/Nov/04

I must of gone off route on the top pitch, felt like a 2+ and only found one bolt! Fun though.
james - 03/Jan/10

Where is the second pitch? The left variant traverses below a main rib through bushes, and it is not pleasent nor natural. The right/upper variant goes along the rib and is much easier (about 2) but not bolted.
olgierd - 25/Mar/10

Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.