Las Tetas de mi Novia

2 Stars

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E3. A good route up the left-hand side of a huge pillar, high up on the southwest face of the buttress. A full rack is needed.
1) 6b+, 36m. Climb the wall below the groove past a variety of fixed gear. Hard moves lead left into the groove to belay.
2) 6b, 44m. Climb the groove until forced left into another. Up this until moves back right gain a crack (pegs) and higher a stance.
3) 6a, 20m. Traverse easily rightwards until you can climb a short awkward wall past a peg to access an exposed stance.
4) 6a+, 45m. Start direct, then trend right to the ridge.
FA. Roberto Lli, Quique Barber 1984


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