Llobet/Bertomeu Top 50

3 Stars

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HVS. An old and popular climb, the route was fully bolted briefly, but most of these have been removed - carry a light rack. Although there is only one hard pitch, it is a fairly committing undertaking. Climbers have occasionally got into trouble by not traversing right far enough on P4 (and P7 ). Start by the steps opposite the old electricity house, by the old bridge. Take great care not to drop anything towards the road.
1) 3, 44m. Follow the pillar leftwards to a 'netting' belay.
2) 4, 44m. Up the rib above to where the ridge levels out.
3) 2, 50m. Scramble easily up the ridge to a grassy terrace and cross this to a peg belay below and left of a groove in the wall.
4) 4+, 46m. Climb up rightwards (bolt) to the groove, and climb it for 3m, then pull onto the right edge. Follow a line of cracks up the wall to threads and traverse right for 10m to a stance.
5) 5+, 36m. Climb the polished groove (pegs and a bolts) and continue in the same line to belay on threads and an old bolt.
6) 4+, 20m. Climb the wall left of the belay (bolt) to a short wall. Trend right (pegs) to a slab and an exposed stance.
7) 4, 36m. Continue traversing right to a groove (possible belay) climb this and slabs above to the top.
Descent - Use the Terrace Descent, or continue to the top via a scramble and a ridge walk across the top. To descend from here, traverse the ridge until you reach houses, descend through these then head back left to the Terrace Descent


This is a fantastic route. A real adventure that takes some classic lines up out of the gorge. It is definitely worth doing the last two pitches to the very top as they are both exciting located on the arrete and it is worth it to make it to the top anyway.

For more details check out the My Favourite section on my Mascarat Gorge page:


Adrian Bates
Costa Blanca Climbing
Adrian Bates - 15/Mar/04

Did Via UBSA just before Christmas - excellent and well worth doing, but I thought the route descriptions in Rockfax & Chris Craggs Guides misleading with regard to the top of Pitch 4. It should be made clear that the traverse Right takes you around the arete (to a large but hidden stance) from which the crucial groove is very obvious. Quite a few people have not traversed far enough right (and have belayed at the thread and peg belay described) and have tried climbing a much more difficult groove above pitch 4. The slings and krabs hanging off the incorrect line suggest occassional epics! Please emphasise traversing right around the edge. By the way the crux pitch is well equipped with shiny new bolts. The route would be a 'mare for the average V.S. leader!
Bob Llewelyn - 27/Dec/04

Agree with you. That's what happen to us. I tried to abseil from a rock formation when it broke off, lucky me I was on a good hold. i abseil from a single nut placement. Dangerous. Rockfax guide looks good, but route description in this case was very poor.
ramon marin martinez - 01/Jun/05

I didn't think this was as good as the Espolon Central on Puig Campana so if you have a choice between the two, then do that one.
Neil Binns - 04/Jan/06

first few piches were ok have to agree with others about the traverse right, with all the tatt above you and the look of the moves right very easy to be fooled into not doing what is'nt too bad a traverse onto a bit of a hanging belay. crux move now has 3 new bolts just were you need them.
chris elfleet - 29/Jan/06

Great route which still has some bolts. The crux is well protected. Bring a few web slings to supplement your light rack, as you will be able to use outcrops and holes in the rock for protection.
are strøm - 18/Apr/06

This route is a bit over-rated compared to other routes such as Diedre Magicos and Via Valencia. Very rambling for quite a few of the pitches, only the 3rd and the 4th pitch are any good, and the crux corner is rather short and over quickly. Disappointing.....
Chad - 24/Apr/06

An excellant route with wonderful exposure for the grade. The crux is short and well protected, albeit rather polished, but most of the rest is just very pleasant. Well worth continuing to the top - another 3 pitches, no harder than 3 but a lovely exposed rib to gladden any Trail-reader's heart, followed by a bit of a walk.

Description seems pretty accurate, but fairly sure 6th pitch is more like 30m - there is a stance at around 20m, but then you miss the incredible sloping belay with it's feeling like you're perched on the edge of nowhere.
chris_moor - 14/Feb/08

Just an update for the guide book. Alot of the bolts have been taken off this route, having recently climbed it we must have clipped a max of 10 bolts for the whole route. It is an adventure and a full trad rack is a must. A nice route, enjoy.
kevin rutherford - 15/Apr/08

Great route, though the following should be noted:
Much of in-situ protection has been now been stripped, more so than guidebook suggested. Found that full rack was essential, particularly at belays where several bolts/ pegs were looking quite rough and rusty.
philip stevens - 02/Jun/08

done this a few days ago and it has lots of new bolts on nearly all of the pitches whish meant that very little gear was needed whilst climbing, BUT all except the last belay when you finish on easy ground has been stripped of these bolts meaning you need a full rack to construct belays (bolts chopped off flush or hangers removed and studs hammered in flush)this would also make it very tricky to retreat as many of the belays are on slightly shattered ledges. has anyone any idea why this would have been done - thanks
alan - 18/Jan/09

Did the route a few days ago- there's a mix of old and new bolts (crux pitch has good pro), but you will still need a small rack.

Last pitch can be deceiving with a line of bolts tempting you straight up into a small tree and overhanging groove. To emphasise the guidebook, you need to traverse up 2m then right around a blunt rib to more exposed, but easier climbing rather than going straight up from the belay.
Mark Lim - 17/Nov/09

I wouldn't give that route 3 stars. It's noisy at the bottom and crux is quite polished. Take a lot of slings - they are crucial for protection. If you remember about traversing at the end of 4th pitch and at the start of 7th, you can't go wrong. Start of 2nd pitch is quite tricky - don't go directly to the first bolt. Prepare some communication scheme - because of noise you can't rely on shouting. We used Walkie-Talkie quite handy!
Jakub Botwicz - 25/Mar/10

Had a great day on this route. You only need a light trad rack consisting of one full set of nuts and a half set of friends and lots of 4ft slings for threads, the route has lots of fixed gear throughout some of questionable quality. The groove pitch is showing its age being rather polished but well protected with bolts. There are new bolts on the belay after pitch after pitch 6 just to the right of a large boulder. The description for pitch 7 is rather misleading and should be as follows:

Mount the boulder by the belay and head up the short wall above trending rightwards towards a peg. Climb over the crest and onto a slanting slab with a shallow roof (good underclings) bolt high. Keep moving right until you reach a groove line and continue up this to the top.
jon - 03/Apr/10

A very nice route indeed. The first and third pitches are only transport stretches but the rest is nice, although pitch 5 is quite polished. No problems with the current route description.
Mike C - 29/Apr/15

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