El Pajarón

2 Stars

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E1. The old classic of this wall. The approach is a bit scrappy, but after that it is solid and excellent. Full rack needed.
1) 3+, 55m. Scramble leftwards up vegetated rock to below a groove in the clean upper wall.
2) 6a, 38m. Bridge up the groove, then trend up and right for 10m before moving back left into the continuation groove. At its top, trend left to a small ledge.
3) 5+, 34m. Step right and climb up, then move right again into a hidden groove (pegs) which leads to a good stance.
4) 5+, 30m. Move up behind the stance into a slabby groove and follow the crack above to a stance out on the left.
5) 5, 30m. Follow the red corner (no fixed gear) and a flake on the left followed by cracks to a ledge.
6) 5, 20m. Continue to join Llobet/Bertomeu before its last pitch, then finish up it, or climb the steep groove on the left to the ridge.
FA. Salvador Guerola, Emilio Perales 1986


A wonderful adventure. "Old" in the sense of having spaced 8mm bolts and pegs so you have to place intermediate nuts, not in the sense of "worn-out" - the rock was so rough it felt like a second ascent. We lost the way on pitch 3: went up to yellow rock scar + pegs, then right, found no hidden groove and had to make a 6a move to reach easier ground. Pitch 6 includes a fight through a tree. Quite tough for E1.
Simon Brown - 18/May/05

Would agree with everything Simon said. We also got lost on pitch 3. We kept traversing up and right for about 40m and ended up at a large overgrown groove with a single bolt belay. There was a krab on a peg half way across where someone bailed. The pitch after this went up a slab through a tree and up some very exposed hard climbing definitely not 5+. Brilliant climbing throughout on obviously little travelled rock, though harder than the guide but we think we were off route. Although pitch 3 says move right, the line on the photo goes left?? Has anyone actually done this and thought they were correct. When we joined Llobet we were further right than the picture indicates.
Gary Watson - 06/Oct/06

I bailed out halfway up the 6a pitch - a bit too spooky, with somewhat dodgy gear (an old bolt with tat, a newish bolt, a rattly small cam and a rusty creaking peg in about 50ft) bridged next to an alarmingly loose flake, and not certain which way to go....this plus the roar of traffic, periodic gunshot (from hunters in the vicinity??) all added up to a potential epic in the making. So we whimped out and went to Toix West for some fun!
John Spencer - 23/Dec/07

Also bailed about 20m up the 6a pitch (2).
Found gear adn rosk quality very uninpiring - several very alrge and loose holds including a huge flake, no doubt the same one John Spencer found. The newish bolt just above that was a bit of a godsend!
What I did felt like E2 5a, lots of loose rock and little worthwhile gear.
Not sying it isnt a good route mind - just not what I had been looking for. No doubt a great adventure if youre up to it!
Si dH - 29/Mar/09

Very nice route worth doing. The rock is so sharp and new it's incredible it was opened in 86. A little rack is required.

P1 Horrible and long.
P2 Super grey limestone and not trivial moves for the grade.
P3 A difficult move at the start then traverse right to a blind move, then straight up (crack) to the belay.
P4 Short, easy but nice, straight up.
P5 Follow yellow crack then easy terrain but the route is not evident! We climbed slightly to the right then loose thin flakes straight up to a peg before the belay under a yellow bulge. At least 45 meters long.
P6 turn right then polished dihedral and easy bolted slab to the top.

Descent: follow many cairns on the arete then down to the railway and the road. 30 mins.
elvio - 11/Jan/11

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