Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 236
The most popular route in the quarry, and amongst the best HVS routes in the Peak, up the magnificent long corner. It has a difficult central layback/bridging groove and tricky section to reach the final roof. It used to be split into three short pitches though one biggie is the norm nowadays.
Login to your ROCKFAX account to add your comments - Search for comments.
Two tricky sections - entering the layback/bridging groove, and passing the top overhang. No more than 5a, but ridiculously tiring carrying and placing all that gear. An absolute must.
Awesome route. Got so knackered on the layback had to sit on the midway ledge for five minutes to get my breath back. It's a doddle from there though so it was all okay.
Awesome fearful twisting corner. It looks hard and oh so impressive - try it and you can ab off when you get stuck I though. The first ramp is a scramble, but the difficulties leap out at you. It has an alpine feel with in-situ wooden chocks and big gear placements (I used all my old hexes). The crux arrives before the ledge, when you don't expect it. But the gear is flawless. The roof section is a breeze (even with tired arms) delicate and airy. And too soon it is all over. Best route on the crag!
Utterly, utterly brilliant!
Brilliant route, but I found the reaching the roof just as difficult as the lower layback section.
One of the best hvs's on grit without a doubt - make sure you've got lots of stamina before setting off on it (eat lots of bananas)
A climb I have wanted to do for ages, it just looks so impressive!
Brilliant, though a shame it’s not 10 pitches long. The sort of route I just want to keep on going....
It was my aim for the day but was advised that I didn't have enough runners (8) or gear for a route of that length, so I improvised a couple more and the wooden chock helped save one. The gear is bomber so left longer spaces than I usually would. Left me with warm glow and a week long high.
what a climb recently did this route after leaving it a year or so to make sure it was onsite after i thrutched up it the first time. up to the ledge fine on the first ledge tricky the wooden block is in the way if you put a sling on it.love laybacking so dont stop for gear till at 2nd ledge found the bit up to the roof tough once at the roof eases big time top top route
Awesome climbing. Contrary to what some people say here, this does not need to be a pumby climb. Look carefully for feet placements, they are available all the way, specially in the hard middle layback section, there are three places here were you can bridge and place gear relaxed and confidently. The top overhang is a breeze. Enjoy.
Only found one place to bridge and place gear on the crux layback section. Maybe you need longer legs? Pumpy but awesome - a must-do route!
Previously Valkyrie on Frogatt was my favourite grit route, not so sure now is this the greatest HVS in the peak or even the greatest route??
Great route, but very polished now at the crux, which should maybe push it up a technical grade.
A Top 50 route that lives up to the hype.
Wanted to do this for ages, glad I left it until I was capable. Never strenuous, just a bloody long way up! Loads of rests, great gear and fantastic climbing.
What an amazing route! Did this last night in the fading light and mist/drizzle, and despite sub-prime conditions it was extremely enjoyable.