1 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Cuevas < Ghetto Blaster  |  Cleoplaca > V&iacute;a Aurora >>

E1. Another long route with good lower pitches, but it eases with height and the finish is a bit scrappy. Start from the old road-bridge, and walk across underneath the Cleoplaca wall. Scramble up a flake to the ledge under the wall, bolt belays.
1) 6a, 34m. Move left to the groove on the left of the face. Climb this, past a deep hole, to a small ledge on the left.
2) 5+, 24m. Pull back right into the crack and follow it up the edge of the wall to a stance below steeper rock.
3) 4, 18m. Traverse directly across the slab on the right to the Cleoplaca belay. Abseil from here or:
4) 4+, 50m. Up the grooves above, take care with the rock.
5) 5, 50m. Follow the flakes to the left of the grooves, then step back right to easy ground. Belay on the crest.
FA. Juan Montesinos, Rafael Botella 1970s


Watch out for this route, I've been told by a couple of guys who just climbed it that the last two pitches are not 4+ and not 50m.

They said they were rather scary and a lot harder than 4+. Probably more like 6a.
Kyuzo - 09/Apr/05

We only did the first two pitches then traversed across to the ab descent. Really worthwhile couple of pitches and you get to wave at all the surprised drivers on the road below. Very unusual. The ab point was poor and needed backing up - maybe we didn't get the right place, but it was the only one with more than one bit of fixed gear - it was slightly down from the end of p2
Heike - 08/Jan/07

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