Embankment 3

3 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Embankment 2 < Scritto's Republic  |  Time For Tea > Tea for Two >>

1) 5b. An excellent finger-jamming pitch. Passing the tat (care, it is tied through an ancient peg/blob of rust) is the trickiest bit.
2) 5b. The thin crack in the upper wall, left of the groove, has hard moves (almost 5c) low down.
FFA. Ed Drummond 1975



Say what you like about it but its a good grade easier than Regent St. Painful on the toes though.
Al - 14/Jul/02

E2 to who? People who can't finger jam? This has always been a classic introduction to the E1 grade due to its well-protected nature - an excellent classic.
Ted - 15/Jul/02

Painful - Emb 4 is much pleasanter and more interesting at the same grade
SteveC - 29/Aug/02

The second pitch is 5c, although still E1.
Iain Fisher - 03/Oct/02

Mint, safe and 3* all the way
JR - 03/Apr/03

The climbing isn't that hard, but my toes get mashed to bits - it's just so painful! Am I doing it wrong??
Nick Smith - 10/Jun/03

Someone has removed the tat since last month, which makes the hard moves near the top a bit more runout!
Nick Smith - 08/Jul/03

it didn't kill my toes but my friggin' ankles! both feet one above the other in the wide crack at 90 degrees to each other - who can i sue? well protected though!
hans - 06/Sep/04

led this three times now, had to thread the peg the first time on lead, lucky i had my nut key. Fell off it 3rd time when i slipped just above the first peg and was held by a useless looking sideways nut placed in the flared crack i'd placed to back up the peg.
3 stars classic e1 5b finger jamming.
Jon Greengrass - 08/Sep/04

oh i forgot to say jamming your feet in the crack really kills! but is a good incentive to lcimb quickly and stops you hanging around
Jon Greengrass - 08/Sep/04

The first pitch is well protected for E1, but with some difficult moves. Absolutely amazing climbing especially above the tat. The second pitch is harder, but equally well protected. Definitely 3*s.
Sam Doyle - 31/Oct/05

I like this climb for two reason, it forced me to use the crack exclusively and it ate all my nut placement..:)
No-ozone - 09/Jan/06

tried the fast and light aproach to this route got to the tatt with bulging arms mashed feet and blowing like a whale,fell just above it. 1 year later slowed down lots of gear and rests if you look, still painfull on feet but breazed up it. top pitch is harder i thought. finger jamming love needed all the way up
chris elfleet - 29/Jan/06

I have always found this route hard and thought it was just me. Only 45 feet but packs it in.

Top roped it yesterday 20 times and did the crux past the peg about 5 different ways but all seemed hard and on-off and 5b/5c.

Wear comfortable boots.
Simon Lee - 24/Mar/06


FIEND - 31/Mar/06

The scrabbling footwork of one floundering leader would have had more affect in this respect. Are you suggesting that no one should try to lead at their limit? Also if you can suggest better preparation for Yosemite I am all ears.
Simon Lee - 04/Apr/06

mmmm have to agree with FIEND here to some degree. yes trying to lead at your limit is no bad thing, this is the exact limit i am at now and find just going up on sight and pushing your limit (on climbs that suit YOU)is the best way, sure you are going to get in a few spots of bother but you can always back off.maybe for you to be ready for this climb you should be solid at HVS first? perhaps you would have to agree that practesing 20 times is a tad excessive on one route, time after time?
chris elfleet - 11/Apr/06

climbed this route today ,bit damp near the top but great well protected e1
nick whelan - 05/Jul/07

I had not read the reply's to Simon Lee's comments about climbing embankment 3 20 times on a top rope. He wasn't practising the route prior to attempting to lead it. He was training for a trip to Yosemite. He was suggesting that someone climbing at their limit or trying to push their limit on this route would have more of an effect on the polish than him climbing it smoothly in control.
craig devonshire - 13/Jul/08

I disagree about the 2nd pitch being harder. It felt very easy. We did it after embankment 4 and it felt a full grade easier.
craig devonshire - 21/Jul/08

Lobbed full length of the route onto the first peg. Lobbed again. Lobbed again. The peg's good. Foot holds at 'that' point felt non-existent. Managed it eventually. Quality route.
Dave Foster - 15/Sep/08

The tat held from near the top, what more can I say! Oh yeah 3*
Ian Burton - 30/Mar/09

On 14/08/09 the tat failed to hold a fall and may or may not have been replaced.
Jack - 16/Aug/09

A grade easier with a nice pair of stiff new boots I'd say. Don't miss the top pitch, its well worth it.
Jon Leighton - 11/Apr/10

Fairly physical and hard on the ankles, but packed with gear. Why is it pegged? You can get utterly bombproof gear without the peg. Also, it's hardly polished at all, can't understand these comments.
Frithwood - 20/Aug/10

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 150
    hard E2 0 of 51
    E2 0 of 51
    easy E2 3 of 51
    hard E1 12 of 51
    E1 31 of 51
    easy E1 4 of 51
    hard HVS 1 of 51
    HVS 0 of 51
    easy HVS 0 of 51
    hard 5c 0 of 51
    5c 0 of 51
    easy 5c 0 of 51
    hard 5b 0 of 51
    5b 0 of 51
    easy 5b 0 of 51
    hard 5a 0 of 51
    5a 0 of 51
    easy 5a 0 of 51
    hard 4c 0 of 51
    4c 0 of 51
    easy 4c 0 of 51
    hard 4b 0 of 51
    4b 0 of 51
    easy 4b 0 of 51
    hard 4a 0 of 51
    4a 0 of 51
    easy 4a 0 of 51
    hard 3c 0 of 51
    3c 0 of 51
    easy 3c 0 of 51
    hard 3b 0 of 51
    3b 0 of 51
    easy 3b 0 of 51
    hard 3a 0 of 51
    3a 0 of 51
    easy 3a 0 of 51
    hard 2c 0 of 51
    2c 0 of 51
    easy 2c 0 of 51
    hard 2b 0 of 51
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    easy 2b 0 of 51
    hard 2a 0 of 51
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    easy 2a 0 of 51
    hard ?? 0 of 51
    ?? 0 of 51
    easy ?? 2 of 51
    hard ?? 16 of 51
    ?? 32 of 51
    easy ?? 0 of 51
    hard ?? 1 of 51
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    3 Stars 26 of 48
    2 Stars 17 of 48
    1 Star 5 of 48
    0 Stars 0 of 48
    Bag of ..... 0 of 48

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