El sol Top 50

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Pa Roig < Asquerosa coincidencia  |  Kin mal d'ous > Escorreguda preco&ccedil; >>

Magnificent climbing up the left-hand edge of the red streak with a tricky finish over the top roof. This is easier to the left (old bolt) but direct is better, and harder - 6c?


F6b+ and 3 stars. Topo line and description don't seem to match reality - the F6c+ direct finish described doesn't seem to exist, and the normal finish described seems to be the direct finish as it uses two comfortable pockets (not F6c+, still F6b+) - there is a bolt around left in the groove so that seems to be where the normal route is supposed to go??

Anyway. Fine route up another one of those irresistable orange streaks. Nice climbing early on and a stiff crux below the roof, a bit overchalked though.
Fiend - 01/Mar/05

Superb 6b+ ***. Took some time to figure out how to find the way at the left side of the finish. The old bolt at the corner of the little roof psyched me out!
satosh - 15/Jan/06

Great route with 4 hard sections interspersed by good rests. It seems there are a number of differant ways of doing the final roof
Chris the Tall - 22/Jan/06

the original finish is the roof direct. The left is only the easy left.
guillem de gandia - 13/Jun/07

Another Gandia classic sandbag! Lovely 6b/6b+ climbing all the way up to the roof then a real stopper move above with a long reach to a small sharp pocket which I really didn't want to pull on - felt way hard for 6c and definitely much harder than the rest of the route. Eventually did the left hand finish which is good, but you do have to go some way left quite low and it's difficult to disentangle yourself from the bolt above the roof to do this, which really spoilt it for me. Would make a better more balanced route if it was described and bolted to go this way - as it is it's not 3* imho.
Alison Cairns - 14/Jan/14

Agree with the above,pointless and knarly pull over the roof at the top should just move left then back right, v tricky move up the groove. Old school 6B+!
hueco65 - 04/Mar/17

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