The Wizard's Wynd
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A long left-to-right rising girdle of the wall. Prior knowledge of other routes on the wall is very helpful.
1) 7b, 25m. Follow The Road to Iraq and Ruin into Kangaburger Wall. Difficult climbing crossing Trowgerbirge Wall gains Hardcore Ecstasy and a couple of moves down to a foot ledge and bolt belay.
2) 7a, 22m. Traverse right to more difficult moves down and then up (long slings on these bolts) which gain a ledge on Where The Time Goes. Now go up and right to the top overlap before heading for the lower-off on Petulant Frenzy.
FA. Paul Clarke, Martin Berzins 29.9.2002
This wasn't hard at 7b and a slightly easier sequence makes it possibly 7a+
Paul Clarke - 08/Mar/04
I agree with Paul. I think I'm the only other person to have led it so far and it's probably only 7a+ on the 1st pitch. A superb expedition though and pitch 2 is quite complicated on first acquaintence.
Dave Musgrove - 08/Mar/04
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