1 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Shaftesbury Avenue < The Whore  |  Happy Wanderer > Oriel >>

Good jamming leads up the wall left of the right-hand cave to a shallow right-facing groove. The exit from this requires care as a hugely unstable boulder-slope lurks above.
FA. Barry Ingle 1962


Your belayer definitely needs a helmet for this one!
David Jones - 22/Jan/02

lovely cimbing untill you get to the top, then a chossy Millstone exit awaits!
mark thrush - 05/Apr/02

the first half of this is great but the difficulties die at halftway when everything suddenly becomes easy but very crumbly :(
leon skeldon - 08/Apr/04

Led2 days ago. The route is very safe gear wise, but currently quite dirty, leaders be aware.
Jon Leighton - 17/Aug/04

Agree with Leon. First half is safe as houses as well as great fun, some cool edging needed. Top half is not nice though... no gear and no holds, just dirty scrambling up sand piles.
Matrixboy - 13/Oct/04

Bloody hard start.
But certainly good climbing to halfway. The mudbank top half ruins the climb - no star should be given for such a mess.
Albie - 31/May/05

Surprisingly awkward.
GrahamD - 12/Sep/05

Very good start and mid section very bad at the top. Paul Tomo
Paul Tomo - 04/Aug/07

5a and hard VS if you follow the jamming crack without a deviation - might be 4c if you use the crack on the right to bypass the dogleg. (evidenced by my and my seconds' differing experiences of the route's difficulty).
A.Smith - 13/Jun/14

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 88
    hard HVS 0 of 29
    HVS 0 of 29
    easy HVS 0 of 29
    hard VS 3 of 29
    VS 23 of 29
    easy VS 3 of 29
    hard HS 0 of 29
    HS 0 of 29
    easy HS 0 of 29
    hard 5a 0 of 29
    5a 0 of 29
    easy 5a 0 of 29
    hard 4c 10 of 29
    4c 17 of 29
    easy 4c 0 of 29
    hard 4b 2 of 29
    4b 0 of 29
    easy 4b 0 of 29
    3 Stars 1 of 30
    2 Stars 7 of 30
    1 Star 16 of 30
    0 Stars 4 of 30
    Bag of ..... 2 of 30

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