Great Harry

3 Stars
 VS 4c

Adjacent Routes
<< Great Peter < Pulpit Groove  |  Suspense > Scoop Connection >>

The steep angular corner is jammed and bridged to a stance on the Pulpit. Continue up the wide and awkward corner crack above to a tricky but well-protected exit up a short blank groove.
FA. Harry Hartley 1953


It's much easier to bridge and layback this route, rather than jamming it. Bit hard for VS perhaps, but plenty of good resting positions.
Nick Smith - 24/Apr/02

this is solid VS, but really sustained - really tests your stamina. the last moves had me very worried - it all shelves toward you
rich - 27/Apr/03

I found the hardest bit near the bottom, went up and down several times trying to layback it, eventually tried jamming and it worked a treat. The rest seemed easy in comparison. Much as I'd like to claim my first HVS, I'd agree it's solid VS.
Simon Caldwell - 29/Sep/03

Very sustained. Very topend VS, maybe HVS for wimps...don't give up though - each section has a good ledge at it's end. Note that the crag description gives the grade as HVS. A bit of consistency would be nice :-)
Tobs - 02/Oct/03

Sustained top end VS, excellant rests bomber gear throughout.
initial crack not too hard if you can bridge & jam, the crux for me was the second crack...tricky.
Top crack again is tricky but so well protected you just go with the awkward exit.
Incase your wondering...led my first HVS5a after this one...not a lot in it
Shaun Walby - 06/Jun/04

Can be jammed all the way in damp conditions or bridged in the dry. OK, its long but with rest ledges at regular intervals, nothing any all round VS leader shouldn't be happy to tackle.
GrahamD - 04/Oct/04

This is graded HVS 4c in the old froggat guide,but VS 4C is a lot more appropiate slippy start but good gear and holds all the way to the lovely peg belay at the top.
Adam Moroz - 13/Jan/05

Ypu're up to date then, its been VS for 3 years
Reserve - 14/Jan/05

Climbed in damp & rainy conditions and felt HVS 4c - especially since it is so sustained and it's fairly unrelenting. Not going to argue though if the official consenus is VS. Top section caught me out as a second - wasn't expecting it to be as tricky as it was!
bratto - 15/Jun/05

The start isnt too abd if you can jam ,the second section is very awkward and pumpy if you hang about, and the top section is quite technical. Top-end VS but no more I think.
Si dH - 15/Sep/05

I decide to test the belay stake at the top by pushing it,, and it snapped... so theres no stake there anymore at the top
Nicos - 28/Sep/05

A belay can be set using the solid fence post but you will need extra rope. I had to walk down and borrow another rope as my 50m didn't quite reach! DavidR
DCR - 02/Oct/05

Topend VS without a doubt. sustained but bomber cams (if you have plenty)
we found out about the belay the hard way too. Luckly i belayed from the 'pulpit' and so when Dave came up, and then topped out to find no stake, we re-organised so i was on a single 9mm, doubled. and Dave belayed from the fencepost with the other 9mm. Bear this in mind for your climb!
blanchie14c - 10/Nov/05

Hard for the grade and harder than I remember. And I'd wish I'd read the comments about the stake - best to take a belay on the big ledge just below the top
Chris the Tall - 11/Dec/05

Two very useful belay stakes now in place. Thank you whoever put them there even though one's a bit wobbly.
crammy - 10/Jul/06

Did this and The Mall (VS 4c) at Millstone within a week of each other. Both really similar routes but I found Great Harry much easier, possibly because the crack was the perfect size for jams. Definitely VS 4c though. My only complaint is that it didn't go on for several more pitches.
Julie Mair - 26/Feb/07

Excellent route, its what VS climbing is all about, sustained 4c all the way up, first section laybacking or jam you decide,best to do two pitches for full enjoyment. Top pitch hard to start but gets easier as you move up. 3 star route!
robert bridges - 05/May/07

Belay stakes still good. Makes a good single pitch unless you like messing about on ledges.
Paul Johnson - 22/Sep/08

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 184
    hard HVS 0 of 67
    HVS 0 of 67
    easy HVS 13 of 67
    hard VS 38 of 67
    VS 15 of 67
    easy VS 1 of 67
    hard HS 0 of 67
    HS 0 of 67
    easy HS 0 of 67
    hard 5a 0 of 61
    5a 0 of 61
    easy 5a 0 of 61
    hard 4c 0 of 61
    4c 0 of 61
    easy 4c 0 of 61
    hard 4b 0 of 61
    4b 0 of 61
    easy 4b 0 of 61
    hard 4a 0 of 61
    4a 0 of 61
    easy 4a 0 of 61
    hard 3c 0 of 61
    3c 0 of 61
    easy 3c 0 of 61
    hard 3b 0 of 61
    3b 0 of 61
    easy 3b 0 of 61
    hard 3a 0 of 61
    3a 0 of 61
    easy 3a 0 of 61
    hard 2c 0 of 61
    2c 0 of 61
    easy 2c 0 of 61
    hard 2b 0 of 61
    2b 0 of 61
    easy 2b 0 of 61
    hard 2a 0 of 61
    2a 0 of 61
    easy 2a 0 of 61
    hard ?? 36 of 61
    ?? 23 of 61
    easy ?? 2 of 61
    3 Stars 42 of 56
    2 Stars 13 of 56
    1 Star 1 of 56
    0 Stars 0 of 56
    Bag of ..... 0 of 56

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