3 Stars
 E2 5c

Adjacent Routes
<< Pulpit Groove < Great Harry  |  Scoop Connection > Pool Wall >>

Fine climbing with good rests and great positions. Climb the right wall of the open corner on edges to the arete as for Scoop Connection. Step around right to a small ledge and climb the thin fingery cracks with difficulty to a final long reach.
FAA. Peter Biven 1956. FFA. John Allen 1975


Only one 5c move on the whole route, but it's a tricky one. Great moves, pretty good gear. Fab :-)
Nick Smith - 11/May/02

great route and exposure but the gears a bit crap and the crux is well hard. wont do as a first E2!
mark s davies - 10/May/03

Poor protection
Justin Shiels - 13/May/03

Great route, think all the gear I placed would've held a fall. Exposure was just right ;o)
Paul Phillips - 12/Jul/03

Excellent wire when you first reach the arete. Poor Friend in horizontal slot makes the moves right feel scary, but peg slots and ledges are good. Once here excellent wire protection and the occasional peg exist for the crux.
Graham Hoey - 08/Oct/03

Very safe where it matters, with bombproof Peenuts/Offsets, quite reasonable crux although not one for hot conditions. Peg is also bomber but there's feasible alternative gear so don't be put off if it's not there. Overall a nice pitch at a good angle with a fine position.
Fiend - 24/Oct/03

Not one for hot conditions?? The friction ain't important, brushing the piles of dust off the holds is! The moves are more slate than grit,rockovers between tiny edges, get your stiffest boots on.
Jon Greengrass - 28/Oct/03

Quite steady to the top crack which requires a stiff couple of pulls on just adequate gear.
John Camateras - 21/May/04

The top ledge currently contains a huge ants nest on the left hand side. Be careful not to run the rope through it or they may swarm scarily at you.
Sarah - 14/Jul/04

Good climbing but gear was crap up to the crack. Gear in crack was okay but not great up to peg. Found moves up crack hard and awkward. Overall not one for your first E2!
Dave - 13/Apr/05

Gear seems fine to me.
Matt - 18/May/05

Did today, awsome route, just right exposure, lovely moves good rests and good pro (from half hight). I found loads of good small wire placements ( +No.7)all the way up to the peg.
Markyb - 05/Aug/05

Quality, safe route. The bottom section feels a tad bold (good gear but spaced) but the climbing is straightforward. The crux top crack is full of textbook wire placements and the peg is solid too.
Aly - 14/May/06

An excellent welcome into the world of E2. Position is amazing. Gear is good once you reach the arete. Nice moves right lead to the ledge and the crux where a good wire protects a hard 5C move.
Sam Doyle - 12/Jun/06

the gear is protects the route. a good 5 as you reach the arete then a 1 in the base of the crack and a 3 just before the top all bomber. the peg is in good nick at the moment too.3*
alex mason - 23/Jun/06

great exposure! placed on 00 Friend low down and the, rest teeny nuts. Fabulouso.
Jus - 06/Aug/06

no, not a good first E2 - the lower section is bold and serious with no gear until you gain the arete. wires (when you gain the smaller, lower crack below and left of main crack) can be solid but are not straightforward to place. wires in the main crack are bombproof (not to mention a very solid looking peg). a very enjoyable route with some lovely moves.
ksjs - 12/Aug/07

Initial section was great and similar to anything on Gingerbread Slab (so you might want to warm up there...). Gear on the arete is good if you've got micro-cams, or better nuts slightly lower. It took me 40 minutes to get from there to the top, as ledge-itis set in - especially due to not wanting to trust the further micro-cam and RPs.

Great route all around, but quite (if not very) high in both the E2 and 5c catagories.
Pythonist - 11/Sep/07

This is a route for those that also think great peter is E2. Great route.
John Roberts - 13/Aug/08

Agree with JR. This is a steady E2.(there's no way GP is an E2) with two offset peanut staring you in the face for the hard 5c move and the second easy 5c move protected by a newish looking peg that can be backed up. Quality!
alexadgar - 13/Jun/09

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 136
    hard E3 0 of 45
    E3 0 of 45
    easy E3 2 of 45
    hard E2 12 of 45
    E2 29 of 45
    easy E2 1 of 45
    hard E1 1 of 45
    E1 0 of 45
    easy E1 0 of 45
    hard 6a 0 of 45
    6a 0 of 45
    easy 6a 0 of 45
    hard 5c 31 of 45
    5c 13 of 45
    easy 5c 1 of 45
    hard 5b 0 of 45
    5b 0 of 45
    easy 5b 0 of 45
    3 Stars 21 of 46
    2 Stars 23 of 46
    1 Star 2 of 46
    0 Stars 0 of 46
    Bag of ..... 0 of 46

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