2 Stars
 E1 5b

Adjacent Routes
<< Renegade Master < The Famous Chris Ellis  |  Strapadictomy > Cock Robin >>

A fine micro-route, strenuous, with good gear to catch you if you blow the final moves. Trend right up the wall to a break (small cams) then back left to crux moves out left, or direct.
FA. Dave Brearly 1962


Superb route, solid gear just far enough away to make the virgin E1 leader nervous at the huge reach. One tip, reach as far to the right as you can because that sloper's worse than you think!
Hindu - 15/Jun/02

D'you mean the other right?
matt telfer - 07/Oct/03

Not an ideal 1st E1 but a great little micro route.
Pylon King - 07/Oct/03

Ideal 1st Leader E1????..... Not if you're a short arse, as the final reach is a long way for anyone below 5'8"!!!
Marko - 08/Jul/04

Hindu definitely means his other right.

Nice route, bold last move. Went up for sloper, decided that there was no way I'd be able to hang on to it so came down to halfway again for what could only with great generosity be called a 'rest'. When I finally screwed up enough courage to go for it the move was a bit wild but great once I got the jugs.

Not ideal for first E1 if you ask me. Is very pumpy to place gear (Did anyone else put gear in the diagonal crack? Would the gear in the break stop you before you deck?), although I have to admit I take ages to place gear.
MeMeMe - 31/Aug/04

Er... The diagonal crack placement is the only thing to keep you off the ground if you fluff the last moves. I got to the usual place with hands on the ledge, lost it, and ended up only inches above my belayer's head.

A fun one - fairly pumpy, but the diagonal crack is better than it looks, though the reach left along the ledge feels VERY long.
Pythonist - 05/Jan/05

At 5' 6" it was a struggle to get my foot on the crucial "ledge", never mind make the reach! But bomber gear at the move - can get 2 or 3 mid-size friends without taking all the holds. Word to the wise - don't carry more than a few friends and a sling. It's not worth the extra weight.
Sazzle - 04/Apr/05

Yes, the final Friend placement will easily stop you from decking out, but not neccessarily from swinging into the wall round the corner. Ouch.
Phil Telfer - 08/Jun/05

Top roped this offering twice - too scared to lead! Superb final move onto slopers then a giant heave onto ledge.
severestu - 11/Aug/05

I found a friend and a sideways-on nut in the diagonal crack protects from landing on your belayer. Powerful little route with a scrappy pull up from the top LEFT holds and a hint of kneeage, or was that just me?
Neil R - 29/Aug/05

Just returned to this one. Still think it's great fun, but pretty much ran to the top this time.

If the think the final holds are aweful, they are, but just keep reaching further left.

Personally, after the first break before launching right, I didn't use any cams. A 7 nut fits so well in the horizontal crack at the arete and in the top diagonal crack, it feels like sports climbing.
Pythonist - 03/Oct/05

Lead this on the hottest day of the year with a trouser leg on my head for protection....from the sun. Damn cool route!
Joe Costello - 16/Jun/06

An excellent boulder problem, just what you need to get yourself a little worked up. Protection is great, so just get on and do it.
Gareth Chapman - 10/Jul/06

Harder for me than any of the other E1s and E2s that I did this weekend.
I'm sure it's fine if your strong - the holds are ok, and the gear good, but it's steeper than it looks.
Glen Harding - 31/Jul/06

Lead this route today in the wet! A bit after my mate lead 3 pebble in the rain ha ha what a fun day!

Did hang on my gear for a rest before the moves out to the ledge cos i was sooooo pumped. The diagonal crack takes the most bomber WC Rock 7 towards the top. I'll do it again and just pop that rock in and not faff trying to get other stuff in and hopefully have the stamina to do it in one go!

Either way lovely route and a big grin on my face!
Cameron Anderson - 31/May/07

Do you need stamina to climb an 8 metre route that is described as an excellent boulder problem?
craig devonshire - 01/Jun/07

Well i'm not getting into the whole difference between stamina and power endurance and all that crap cos i can't tell the difference all i know is that i was really pumped just before the move out to the ledge and just couldn't get de-pumped enough to make the move.

Therefore bit more stamina in the old forearms and i'd have made it!

So yes you do! And that'd be one scary boulder problem! Unless you climb well above the grade.
Cameron Anderson - 02/Jun/07

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 194
    hard E2 0 of 63
    E2 0 of 63
    easy E2 0 of 63
    hard E1 3 of 63
    E1 48 of 63
    easy E1 10 of 63
    hard HVS 2 of 63
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    hard 5c 0 of 66
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    easy 5c 0 of 66
    hard 5b 0 of 66
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    easy 5b 0 of 66
    hard 5a 0 of 66
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    hard 4c 0 of 66
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    hard 4b 0 of 66
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    hard 4a 0 of 66
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    hard 3c 0 of 66
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    easy 3c 0 of 66
    hard 3b 0 of 66
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    hard 3a 0 of 66
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    hard 2c 0 of 66
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    hard 2b 0 of 66
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    hard 2a 0 of 66
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    hard ?? 0 of 66
    ?? 0 of 66
    easy ?? 1 of 66
    hard ?? 19 of 66
    ?? 39 of 66
    easy ?? 7 of 66
    3 Stars 41 of 65
    2 Stars 18 of 65
    1 Star 5 of 65
    0 Stars 0 of 65
    Bag of ..... 1 of 65

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