Strapadictomy Top 50

3 Stars
 E5 6b

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A real classic and rite of passage which is hard work but well protected. Climb the short arete to runners, then lean out (large wire in the flake) and layback onto the flake. About face, and finish briskly.
FA. John Allen 1976


Don't remember a 6b move on this at all. The flake is strenuous but 'only' 6a.
Dave C - 12/Jan/05

I agree with Dave, if it's 6b it's either E4 or E6 if it's 6a it's E4.
sloper - 18/Jan/05

a classic route. Well protected but very strenuous and I personally thought it was 6b
dave - 03/May/05

E5 6a always was always will be
Matt - 18/May/05

E5,6a for sure. Technically its not that bad, you just need to spend a little bit of time using your feet and thinking your way up it..
Goi Ashmore - 18/Sep/06

I thought 6b, although admitedly don't have a lot of experience at flashing this grade. I'm quite short though and could only get two fingers on the bottom of the flake from the side-pull, so maybe the discrepancy in opinions in the grade is an arm span thing.
andy reeve - 01/Apr/07

Shorter arms are better for this to be honest. The trick is to drop down into the crack, not crank up
Goi Ashmore - 19/Oct/07

How can short arms possibly be better?
BIRKBY - 14/Jun/08

E4 6b in my opinion. excellent moves and not over till yourt on top.
luke - 19/Oct/08

aaaa i fell off at the final move :(
Dave - 19/Jul/09

woooo! i did it today, awesome route
Dave - 23/Jul/09

For me the best "safe" Gritstone route I've ever done. Great fun, cant imagine any better. I personally vote for E5 6a, quiet similar like Bat out of hell.
Urs Odermatt - 02/Jun/13

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 87
    hard E6 0 of 30
    E6 0 of 30
    easy E6 1 of 30
    hard E5 0 of 30
    E5 7 of 30
    easy E5 18 of 30
    hard E4 4 of 30
    E4 0 of 30
    easy E4 0 of 30
    hard 6c 0 of 30
    6c 0 of 30
    easy 6c 1 of 30
    hard 6b 0 of 30
    6b 13 of 30
    easy 6b 5 of 30
    hard 6a 10 of 30
    6a 1 of 30
    easy 6a 0 of 30
    3 Stars 26 of 27
    2 Stars 0 of 27
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