Sunset Crack

2 Stars
 HS 4b

Adjacent Routes
<< Sundowner < Sunset Slab  |  Turret Crack > Slab and Crack >>

The awkward undercut crack has enough runners to make up for the previous two offerings! The initial bulge is the crux and the route has its fair share of sloping holds but, on the whole, it is pretty friendly at the grade.
FA. Len Chapman 1948


Good route but where is the 4c move on the initial bulge ? (I think you must have missed the easy sequence)
Steve - 13/Dec/01

Soloed it. To be honest, was harder than some VSs with the sloping holds - 4c seemed very fair.
Mark Stevenson - 10/May/02

I soloed it too. I thought there were a couple of moves on it to be honest. Interesting. Harder than some VSs? Well, there are plenty of HSs out there that qualify for that tag! I think HS is a good grade for this one, lots of protection (well, it looked like it anyway ;-)
Paul Boardman - 17/Sep/02

If the crux was five metres further up it'd get a VS. In my book this makes no difference except your safer higher up, so worth VS. Nice and also safe climb...
Woker - 17/Oct/02

A great route where you can play a silly game, How many nuts can the leader place in the crack 1 set 2 sets?
Jon Greengrass - 17/Jun/03

Done this a few times now, IMHO a good mid-grade HS very protectable and I don't agree with 4c for the move over the bulge, there's pockets and smears aplenty.
Swirly - 10/Dec/03

I agree with Swirly about the dificulties in overcomming the bulge, but think the initial crack is a lot harder to protect than it looks (and judging by the wear on the first good wire placement at the start of the upper, much easier, section, so do other people too).
D Berry - 29/Feb/04

Protection os not difficult, and this definitely isn't 4c or VS (only just HS) IMHO. Moves over the initial bulge and at half-height are both maybe 4b but only just.
Si - 25/Aug/04

When seconding this I did the start on jams and smears staying very close to the crack and thought it was about 4c -- but certainly didn't think this was the easiest approach!
Michael Hudson - 01/Apr/05

No way in this world is there a 4c move anywhere on this crack. My seconder, who was a lead-climbing virgin seriously considered this one as her first candidate. I've been up Diffs that required more technical skills.
Mutl3y - 07/Jul/05

Quality route, with crux at start (the best place for them!). Super safe as crack will accept as many wires as you can carry.
severestu - 11/Aug/05

Quite easy for the grade I thought, seconded without slipping in hiking boots.
Gareth James - 24/Oct/05

Bit harder for those people with fat fingers (me). Bit slopey in places but more enjoyable for it! Only put two pieces of gear in, pure fun.
WildThing - 15/Nov/05

Very easy for a VS or a 4c. HS is probably closer. VS is my top end leading grade. It's a lovely climb though.
James Woodier - 20/Jan/06

The bulge is easy, big footholds and good smears, very well protected, and straight of the ground. I reckon easy 4b for anyone looking at their feet. the rest is about vdiff/s with gear anywhere you want it. This should get S 4b. Never 4c and definitely not HS.
Iain Cattanach - 15/Mar/07

I felt that the first move up off the ground was definitely worth 4c, I reckon it's probably easier if you've got the height for it. I recommend not over lacing the start of the crack with gear (like me) because the hand holds start to dissappear very fast if you do! The remainder is a doddle for HS. So a hard HS start combined with an easy top section still gets a HS in my book.
Kevin Kilroy - 15/Oct/07

Looking a bit worn from too many practice nut placements.
Swig - 14/May/08

Didn't feel like a 4c to me - this was my first lead of anything above VDiff and I didn't exactly struggle. My belayer told me where the crux was when he realised I was about two moves above it. Well protected and some lovely climbing. A great lead for beginners who want to push the grade. Providing you can foot-jam, anyway...
lornajkelly - 09/Dec/13

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  • Route Grade Votings

    Total votes cast 219
    hard VS 0 of 106
    VS 0 of 106
    easy VS 25 of 106
    hard HS 19 of 106
    HS 42 of 106
    easy HS 13 of 106
    hard7 of 106
    0 of 106
    easy0 of 106
    hard 4c 0 of 17
    4c 0 of 17
    easy 4c 0 of 17
    hard 4b 0 of 17
    4b 0 of 17
    easy 4b 0 of 17
    hard 4a 0 of 17
    4a 0 of 17
    easy 4a 0 of 17
    hard 3c 0 of 17
    3c 0 of 17
    easy 3c 0 of 17
    hard 3b 0 of 17
    3b 0 of 17
    easy 3b 0 of 17
    hard 3a 0 of 17
    3a 0 of 17
    easy 3a 0 of 17
    hard 2c 0 of 17
    2c 0 of 17
    easy 2c 0 of 17
    hard 2b 0 of 17
    2b 0 of 17
    easy 2b 0 of 17
    hard 2a 0 of 17
    2a 0 of 17
    easy 2a 0 of 17
    hard ?? 0 of 17
    ?? 0 of 17
    easy ?? 4 of 17
    hard ?? 4 of 17
    ?? 4 of 17
    easy ?? 5 of 17
    3 Stars 13 of 96
    2 Stars 52 of 96
    1 Star 28 of 96
    0 Stars 3 of 96
    Bag of ..... 0 of 96

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