Direct de UBSA

1 Stars

Adjacent Routes
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E1. An interesting variation on Vía Valencianos.
1) 4, 38m. Follow the first pitch of Valencianos, but move left to a bolt belay below the centre of the slab.
2) 6a, 18m. Climb direct up the slab to a small stance in the middle of the easy traverse on Valencianos.
3) 5+, 20m. Climb steeply to gain a fine slab that leads to belays.
4) 5, 34m. Trend right up the right-hand bolt line up the steep wall (some fixed gear) to the great slab. Climb straight up this to join Valencianos. Either continue up this or make three long abseils.


One of the scariest routes I've ever climbed. The lower section will fall off one day! The short abseil only adds to the excitement.
Mike Smith - 21/Oct/04

A great adventure. Highly recommend it.

I agree the first couple of pitches feel 'detached', but the rest of it is just great building as height is gained.

We didn't abseil, my partner lowered me first so I could concentrate, with my free hands on pulling myself sideways to the ledge system. I then returned the favour and lowered my partner.
stonedonkey - 30/Jan/05

A few (all?) of these folks have done DIEDRE UBSA and not Direct de UBSA. The former is not loose and does not include an abseil!!!!

Chris Craggs - 30/Jan/05

Do you mean the latter, Chris? Direct de UBSA *isn't* loose? (i see it has no abseil) ... is it any good i wonder, has anyone done it, as the line looks terrific.
Phil Murray - 27/Dec/06

Well spotted that man!

Not sure about the rest of them, but I have done it!

Chris Craggs - 27/Dec/06

Direct de UBSA is a fantastic route with the best pitch being the 4th pitch which is a intimidating traverse to regain the main slab.

The sequence of moves to get onto the slab at the start of the second pitch are not F5. I would say they are around F6a+ and local climbers, apparently, also go with the F6a+ grade.
adam young - 26/Feb/07

2nd pitch - agree 6a+
alan - 14/Jan/10

I've now done the route (2/4/2010), and it is a very worthwhile change from Via Valencianos. I agree that the 3rd pitch is more like 6a+, I placed two wires to protect the delicate traverse back in to the crack; the second pitch was no pushover either, tho bolts protected the very thin lower part of it.

The RockFax states that, on pitch 4, you "trend right up the right-hand bolt line passing occasional fixed gear to gain the great slab" - there are NO bolts here guys! though some stuck wires & tat; it's a vegetated and scary (as looks loose...) pitch; we stopped at the first bolt I encountered on Sensacion de Vivir (6b+) before continuing onto the great slab and joining Via Valencioanos. Trad head was put firmly on!

It was a most rewarding and also un-crowded route to do, but if you can't lead 6a+ on the single pitch sports stuff, or lead VS/HVS on gear, steer clear - I passed an abandoned screwgate where a previous party had baled out on the run-out crux (5+) pitch ....
Phil Murray - 05/Apr/10

Did it last week. Definitely harder compared to Valencianos, but also much more fun. First pitch - 4. Second pitch is absolutely the hardest, 6a+ is probably a bit too much, but definitely not just a "5". Third pitch requires trad gear placement (which is not difficult to find) but climbing itself is a touch easier, 5c-5c+, I'd say. Kevlar threads come in handy on both this one and the next. I didn't feel the fourth one to be that loose or scary, but it's true - there are no bolts until on the slab.
Alexey Dolinin - 28/Jun/10

"Hardest" was probably a wrong word as regards the second pitch - technically dificult is more appropriate.
Alexey Dolinin - 28/Jun/10

The second pitch of Direct de UBSA was perhaps harder than the second pitch of Polvos Magicos, which is/was rated 6a+ (before it became polished). It helps to have a long reach so you can stretch and get your fingers into the thin crack.
piafuglen - 24/Feb/17

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