Route Grade Votings
Total votes cast 10
E1. A neat direct version of Valencianos with a great line. Escape onto Valencianos is an option at several points. Take a rack.
Great situation, not the best route ever because it is escapable in places, but the slippy walled thin corner and particularly the last move onto the ledge will get you going.
This is a nice alternative to Valencianos. The second pitch has only a couple of moves at 6a+ near the top, but can be avoided by escaping onto Valencianos.
Vía fácil, muy lavada, ojo con los patinazos,los diedros finales son para disfrutarlos.
Although not as good as Diedro UBSA and with more fixed eqt than expected, we found it a nice undertaking with interesting climbing on pitch 2 and up the long corner/groove to the ridge (we did pitch 4,5 and 6 as two pitches). Approx. 6 bolts on the crux length, which we chose to supplement with a couple of cams. Due to the popularity of Valencianos (which shares several pitches with P.M) with unexperienced climbers, it is essential to start early if you want to climb without long rests.
crux pitch does a great job of sucking you in started of very slabby then slowly gets steaper until the last move to the top is a great relief to reach the ledge. top climb
The popular routes on the south face are becoming increasingly polished and therefore more difficult. Polvos Magicos is no exception. The routes are still worthwhile to climb though.