Costa Blanca Top 50

3 Stars

Adjacent Routes
<< Piratas < Los miserables  |  Costa Miserables > Puto paseo ecol&oacute;gico >>

A brilliant route which is one of the best in the area. The climbing is superb and independent, and the finish is breathtaking. It is fully equipped. Start as for Vía Valencianos.
1) -, 15m. Move up, then right along a ledge to belay below a slab.
2) 6b, 40m. Climb onto a slab and make some thin moves up leftwards. Easier climbing leads up and right to a belay.
3) 6b, 35m. Climb directly up the wall and grooves above.
4) 6a, 35m. Continue to a stance on the edge of the pinnacle.
5) 6b+, 32m. Step down and across the gully onto the wall behind. Surmount a small overhang and continue up the wall above with some sustained moves and long reaches.
6) 6b+, 20m. Straight up the wall to the large upper cave.
7) 6c+, 30m. Swing wildly out of the cave and grind to a halt at thin move. After a rest another hard move, involving a blind reach, gains easier ground and the top.
FA. Jaime Arviza, Salvador Guerola 1993


The first moves on the route proper ,pitch 2 as described are the hardest moves on the route-small slippery holds.Do not be put off the rest is great!!
dwb - 16/Apr/04

What a brilliant route. Just when you think it's all over, step out the cave on the last pitch (6b) and don't look down !
Mike Kerby - 25/Jul/04

demanding start (cold fingers & crispy moves) with a marvelous and breathtaking finish - take a glimp down and feel the depth
bart van ham - 09/Jan/05

1st class route - scramble pitch worth taking a few wires for, 2nd pitch is the hardest - excellent climbing double bolt belays, Go and do it!! (also worth wearing a helmet. The last 2 pitches are in a wild setting
Pudz - 03/Mar/05

Fantastic. I thought the grades for the last 3 pitches should be 6c, 6b and 6c. Also the second belay is too high on the topo.
Justin Shiels - 30/Dec/05

First class route, worthy of the 3 stars.
For what its worth I thought the grades were
-, 6b, 6b, 6a, 6b+, 6b, 6c+

We also did from the pinnacle to the cave in one pitch on a 50m rope (just)...a fantastic, absorbing, exposed pitch.
Ewan - 22/Apr/06

Total classic route, top pitch is great, though not too bad for 6c+ with just one bouldery crux to pull over the roof. The 6b+ below this is a one move wonder as well, though very pleasant. Top pitch is definately harder than the lower 6b+, which is only really difficult because of the bolt position on the crux. First pitch is fine, though a stiff warm up for most probably! Straight into 6b slab moves, which you can avoid on the left if you like. Go do it!
Chad - 24/Apr/06

The first pitch is a shock to the system as a warm up. A bit out of character with the rest. We finished up the Miserables route - the last two pitches are 20m and 45m. The last pitch was outstanding - continuous steep moves that go on and on and on....
Heike - 08/Jan/07

best pitch by far is the sustained pitch from the pinnacle. I psyched myself for the last pitch but was quite dissapointed! It felt much easier than expected, and the cave that you start from is not really a cave at all.

1) -
2) 6b
3) 6a+
4) 5+
5) 6c
6) 6a+
7) 6c
Jus - 10/Feb/09

Jus is spot on with his comments on the pitches and their grades. If you can do the pitch off the pillar cleanly, then there's no reason to take the alternative finish in my view, unless you actually want to: you should be able to do the top pitch. The description of the final pitch could be a little clearer as well, not that it matters too much: for 'after a rest' read 'after 15 to 20 feet of easier climbing', which is a rest as well of course.

As to the quality of the route, the pitch off the pillar is very good indeed; similar to the two excellent 6b pitches on El Navigante in terms of rock type and style of climbing, only a bit harder. Overall it's very good and on solid rock pretty much throughout.
John Gillott - 25/Feb/09

Brilliant route and a MUST DO if in the Costa
Grades are about right, if you find the 5th pitch hard, then technical sustained climbing is maybe not your thing! Again Brilliant!

Paul Edwards - 30/Jan/11

The pitch off the pillar, pitch 5, 6b+, has a really run-out first bolt when stepping up "onto the wall behind". It's pretty clearly in order to make the rope-drag bearable if belaying off the pinnacle, and if you feel good about it then go for it, it's only a 4+ish move, but my partner and I found it far too heady, and instead moved the belay to the top of the gully, also protecting the start with a .75 cam. The headyness was mostly from the change in rock-type: the stone on this pitch offers much less friction than the previous pitches, and a fall into the gully would be horrendous. The move and cam solved our problems.

Anyhow, brilliant route, start early. We rapp'ed after 5 pitches due to being benighted (got on the rock ~1pm). I think the groove/finger-crack on pitch 3 was my favorite climbing during two weeks in Spain.
jugander - 12/Jan/12

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