Vía Gómez-Cano

3 Stars

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E3. A massive mountaineering classic which takes in some incredible rock at a reasonable grade. It follows a long sweeping diagonal line through the series of huge honeycomb caves high on the wall. Take a small rack of gear including some foot slings for the aid pitch. Some of the fixed gear is old but there are some new bolts and all the belays are new and equipped for abseil. Start below a diagonal crack.
1) 6a, 30m. Climb the crack up rightwards then move onto a flake which comes back left. Make a tricky move out right, past a bolt, to a sloping stance.
2) 5+, 15m. The groove above is awkward.
3) A0/5+, 40m. Climb up a groove, then move right onto the wall. Head up here towards a diagonal crack. Aid along this (free at 7b+), then climb up to a stance in the base of the huge caves.
4) 4, 35m. Climb to the top-left corner of the cave and pull round into a large bay. Scramble left and make exposed moves on a short rib around to another cave system and bolt belay.
5) 3+, 40m. Scramble leftwards to a belay on the edge of a cave.
6) 5+, 40m. Climb up flakes to the foot of a groove (possible belay). Follow the corner, then make tricky moves into the crack above. This leads to a stance below a chimney.
7) 6b, 40m. Squirm up the chimney and the grooves above until you are forced right onto a ramp and an exposed belay.
8) 6b, 40m. Climb up into a corner and follow this to a bulge. Move around this on undercuts and follow a corner above to easier ground, bolt belay. Scramble 10m to the top from here (alternative bolt belay).

FA. Miguel Cano, Migeul Gómez 1970s


A brilliant route. 6a+ doesn't really do it justice or tell the full story. Think multi-pitch E2 5c with a strenuous aid pitch low down and the technical crux right at the top (just when you are getting tired - and remember you are probably carrying a sack!

Dave Musgrove - 22/Mar/04

Agree with Dave. I got to the top, got knackered and pulled on a peg (Just as well its there!) . Dont take a sack just a water bottle!
Chris Wy - 03/Nov/05

Nov 08. All belays fully bolted and equipped for abseil descent. Bolts now protect all the hard moves on each pitch. Aid pitch is pretty straightforward, don't need slings or etriers. Pitches 5 and 6 can be combined into one long 45m pitch of 3+, so the whole route is 8 pitches.
Rack = 1 set wires; Friends 1 to 3. A smallish hex. 2 short slings. 3 long slings.16 quick draws
Time; c.6 - 7 hours should do it.
Jonathan Preston - 19/Dec/08

The climb is semi-equipped with parabolts, the sort that don´t rust. All belays are double parabolts with rings. I´d say the upper pitches are very well protected, as is the whole climb. Classic climb, took us 7 1/2hrs - the climb was a bit beyond me, and I did plenty of sling tugging, including leading the crux of the penultimate pitch on aid. Full rack inc. full set of friends, nuts, 15 draws taken.
clams - 01/Jun/10

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